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Montreal?

ski diva

Administrator
Staff member
I'm thinking of spending a couple days in Montreal. I've never been there before, so I'd love any advice. What should I see and do? Anyone have any restaurant recommendations?
 

Rosie Facer

Ski Diva Extraordinaire
I'm thinking of spending a couple days in Montreal. I've never been there before, so I'd love any advice. What should I see and do? Anyone have any restaurant recommendations?

Poutine!

I've only spent a few days in Montreal so my suggestions are limited. I spent a great deal of time walking around and exploring the city. It's a good city to explore on foot but the main benefit getting enough exercise to justify sampling the local "delicacy", poutine. There are a few ideas at https://www.montrealpoutine.com/reviews.html. My favourite was a little place on Boulevard Saint-Laurent. I couldn't tell you the name of it but when it was great and when I checked later it had a reputation for being one of the best. It was near a good bagel shop (possibly Fairmount?) that was on a cross street to the park side, just in case there are any Montreal based divas who know whether the poutine place is still around...

Then there's the sugar pie to sample, and the tourtiere, and (probably not much of a novelty for you but a rare opportunity for me) Dunkin Donuts (sorry, they beat Krispy Kreme and even Timmies). For a less amusement park type diet I recall there was a very good Tibetan restaurant that was within walking distance of my hotel.

Sorry I don't have more detail. My main point was that it's a great city to wander round and explore.
 

Jilly

Moderator
Staff member
SkiBam.....

Poutine - nah, its just french fries, chees cruds and gravy. But...

1. The old port and old city. Just walk. There are so many little side streets, walk ways, its wonderfull to explore.
2. Mont Royal - if you're spiritually inclined.
3. Montreal Casino - the old Expo 67 site.
4. The best sugar pie and tortourie are outside of Montreal. Sugar pie - Just north of SkiBam in Val David - La Petit Poucet??? (SkiBam aidez moi!!) And meat pie.... St Saveur... Can't remember the name of the little patissirier, SkiBam its in the shopping centre where the big SAQ is.

Montreal is so wonderful. You'll love the European feel, but its so close!
 

abc

Banned
I don't go anywhere without my bike. Montreal is actually an excellent city to explore by bike. There're bike paths all over the city. And the ride on the bike path along the Lachine canal is fantastic.

After a bike ride, poutine just hit the right spot! :smile:

But if you're not on bike, walking around the cobble stone street of the old city is quite nice. Doing it (or the waterfront) at night is also very nice.

Take a boat cruise of the water front if you like that kind of thing. Or better yet, take the "Duck" tour, an amphibian car/boat that will go into the water without stopping.

I don't have a restaurant to recommend. I found most places I tried pretty good. In fact, it's the variety of food available that I really enjoy. Me? I like crepes for breakfast! :smile:

If you want to experiement with exotic tropical fruit, go down to Chinatown (right downtown) and just browse what they have on the stands. I don't see that in most other cities except Montreal and Vancouver.

I forgot the name, but there's a street with lots of bars and they open the entire store front "window" (really doors) so you can see who's in there. While not a bar person, I quite like the open atmosphere.

By and large, I enjoy the casual cafe and such. It's a much more intimate city, despite its size. More intimate than many US cities of smaller size.
 

SkiBam

Angel Diva
Well, as a Montrealer (though now I do live outside the city) I should reply.

You don't say when you're coming. Hope it's fall as that's a great time, although the big festivals (Jazz, Comedy) are over.

Now, where to start!

Our standard "tour" for visitors includes Old Montreal (cobblestone streets and lovely old buildings), Old Port (parkland, waterfront views, shops, and lots of action), view from Mont Royal, plus a general tour of different neighborhoods, from elegant and high-priced homes in Westmount to the more traditional houses, all with outdoor staircases (you have to wonder why these were thought to be a good idea in a city that gets a lot of snow) along St. Urbain and surrounding streets. (If you're a Mordecai Richler fan, that's for sure an area to check out.) For the bar scene, Crescent Street is probably more anglo and St. Denis more French. (But what do I know – don't do much bar hopping any more!)

Head to Fairmount bakery for fresh bagels (Montreal bagels, of course, and in the view of locals the ONLY kind of bagels). Personally I'd skip poutine (it's now available all over Canada) and opt for one of the many many wonderful restaurants of all types and in all price ranges. The city is full of BYOB places (bring your wine and there's no extra charge) to keep dining prices reasonable. The Pointe à Caillière Museum in Old Montreal is fascinating – site of an archeological dig that reveals the history of the city.

Some tourists enjoy the underground city – many underground shopping areas are linked so one can avoid nasty weather. You can literally walk miles without venturing outdoors.

As someone mentioned, if you can (and depending on when you're coming), bring your bike - or rent. The city is criss-crossed by a network of bike trails and this is a great way to see the city. Hey, if you're coming before October 6 (when I'm going away), I'd be happy to lead a bike tour. Or even a bit of a walking tour.

I've really rambled, but there's so much that it's hard to highlight just a couple of things. PM me if I can provide more info on specifics. And perhaps other Montreal divas have faves to recommend.
 

cyn

Ski Diva Extraordinaire
I'm kind of surprised that no one has mentioned the horrendous logistics of getting around Montreal these days. I am from there and my entire family still lives there, and believe me, you really need to be aware of this BEFORE you go.

Make sure you cross the bridge (all of them are crowded so you might as well take the Champlain) before rush hour begins, (at about 3pm) because there is not a single public restroom once you cross the border into Quebec (seriously) and you can spend an additional 2 hours just trying to cross the Champlain Bridge. Very uncomfortable indeed.:eek:

Once you're in the city, just park your car and walk, take the metro or the bus, or rent a Bixi bike. Even taxis are easy to hail in the street. You'll have a much better time if you don't try to drive your car everywhere.

You should hop on the metro and check out the Botanical Gardens and the Biodome. They're right next to each other.

My must-eats when I'm there are very "low brow:" dim sum at the Ruby Rouge in Chinatown (so good and so cheap) and Cote St Luc BBQ chicken. Trust me, it's the best - more like rotisserie chicken with killer fries. Ask someone for directions.
Oh yeah, the all dressed souvlaki and pita are great, too. Lots of places to eat that.
Feel free to PM me if you want more info.
 

ski diva

Administrator
Staff member
Great info here! Thanks!

Yeah, I've heard that about getting around, cyn. That's pretty much what we do when we go to NYC -- just park our car and rely on public transit.

Speaking of which, how's the subway system in Montreal?
 

cyn

Ski Diva Extraordinaire
The Metro is great. You can go way out east and even under the river to the south shore if you want. Just ask the ticket person which line to take. They're helpful.

You avoid all the crumbling infrastructure and chaotic construction on the surface!
 

cyn

Ski Diva Extraordinaire
It can be pretty awful. The last time I was there, I felt like a mouse in a maze trying to navigate around all the closed streets.

Just park the car and you'll be fine.
 

cyn

Ski Diva Extraordinaire
The signs actually say "rue baree," and there are lots of them. I was trying to find my way to the Victoria bridge, which is open in one direction only at different times of the day.
I was squeaking nervously, and there was no cheese at the end!:(
 

2ski2moro

Ski Diva Extraordinaire
This is a really timely topic. Some German friends of mine are here for a couple of weeks. They are leaving Monday AM for Toronto for a couple of days, then on to Montreal. Now, you have made me want to go to Montreal, too.


I will forward this info on to them. Any other suggestions?
 

cyn

Ski Diva Extraordinaire
Well, it's always fun to check out Ogilvy and Holt Renfrew for some power shopping. And smoked meat sandwiches are great if you're a carnivore.
 

Swamp Dog

Ski Diva Extraordinaire
there's an Ethiopian restaurant called Blue Nile that I absolutely adore! we ate there a few years ago but no one wanted to go back the last few times we were there. Something about trying different places instead of going to where we had already been.

I know, you don't think great food when you think of Ethiopia, but this place was amazing.
 

segacs

Ski Diva Extraordinaire
How did this topic get so long without me seeing it?

First off, Ski Diva, if you're coming here, we absolutely must meet up! When are you planning to visit?

There's some great advice in this thread. I'll just add a few items:

Transport: You can get yourself an unlimited one-day or three-day pass for public transit. The metro is very easy to navigate and useful for just about anywhere of tourist interest where you can't walk. Check out https://www.stm.info/ for more info. Agree with everyone to avoid driving unless you absolutely have to. I have a car but I never drive unless I'm leaving the city. It's just not worth the headaches. Oh, and if you like to cycle, free bike rentals are available from the tourism booth outside Metro Mont-Royal on a first-come, first-serve basis during the summer and early fall.

Places to stay: We have all the usual business and chain hotels, sure. But if you're looking for something a bit more unique, book into a Gite (B&B) or an Auberge - a lot of them are privately-owned in Victorian triplexes in the Plateau or Quartier Latin areas, which are ideally located for walking around, but will be cozier and friendlier than a Sheraton or a Marriott. Staying in Old Montreal can be a bit pricier, though there's a budget-friendly hostel or two down that way. It's charming, sure, but it has some drawbacks - you're a bit further walk from most of the action, and it can be pretty dead in the wintertime. Nice in summer, though.

Restaurants: Tourist standards include La Banquise (poutine), Schwartz's (smoked meat), St-Viateur Bagels, Gibby's (expensive steakhouse in Old Montreal), etc. I highly recommend a nice leisurely weekend brunch at a favourite spot like Avenue (Plateau) or Le Cartet (Old Montreal). If you're vegetarian or vegan, try Chu Chai or Aux Vivres. Santropol is awesome for sandwiches and soups in the winter. Cactus is great for Mexican food. Some of the associations will be obvious - Chinatown for Chinese food (Beijing is a good spot) or Little Italy for Italian. Prince-Arthur is a pedestrian-only cobblestone street with a bunch of mediocre-food-but-nice-atmosphere restaurants - mostly Greek. Duluth street has a nice similar selection of French and Portuguese spots. Look for "Apportez Votre Vin" (bring your own wine) signs on restaurants, which means you can pop into a local SAQ or convenience store and pick up a bottle of wine and take it with you to dinner. Other than that, this is a foodie city, so let me know what kind of food you like and I'll give you a list of some of my favourites.

Things to do: Depending on what time of year you get here, I'd say don't skip a trip up to Little Italy and Jean-Talon Market - especially nice in fall when the apples are out. Montreal has a ton of festivals, most of which take place in the summer but there's something happening year-round. Definitely head to Mount Royal, especially on a nice Sunday for the tam tams. If it's your thing, you can head out to the Olympic Stadium for the Botanical Gardens or the views from the tower, or even a Montreal Impact game. (Habs games, on the other hand, once they're in season, are near-impossible to get tickets for... you're best off just heading to a pub when the game is on to watch on the big screens with other fans. I recommend Cage aux Sports - great atmosphere - or Olde Orchard - better food. But it's off-season right now anyway.) We have culture in the form of lots of museums - the Fine Arts Museum has a Jean-Paul Gaultier exhibit going on right now - and there's the symphony orchestra at Place des Arts, and a great theatre scene in French and to a lesser degree in English. Or, skip the detailed planning and just wander around - Montreal is very walkable and you can take in most of the major things to see just by walking around.

Shopping: Downtown/Ste-Catherine Street is where you'll find all the big department and chain stores that you see pretty much everywhere in North America (with a few strip clubs thrown in... hey, it is Montreal after all). For more indie or unique shopping, you have to get out of downtown a bit. The Plateau (my neighbourhood) is great for this. Just take the metro up to Mont-Royal and start walking east.

Nightlife: Depends on your preferences, again. Crescent and St-Denis have lots of pubs. The English/French divide for those two was more true in the past, but these days not so much anymore... though more UQAM students still hang out in the Latin Quarter and more Concordia students hang out on Crescent. Young crowds on both streets, though it depends where you go. St-Laurent has clubs. If you like microbrews, check out Dieu du Ciel on Laurier or Amere a Boire on St-Denis. There are lots of wine bars in the Plateau along Mont-Royal. Cinq-a-sept (sort of like happy hour but more upscale) places abound near the business areas and in Old Montreal west of the port. The music scene is diverse and full of everything from folk sessions at pubs to indie and underground stuff - and of course jazz, lots of it. Pick up a free copy of the Montreal Mirror when you get here for listings.

Other stuff: Check out the Montreal Mirror's annual Best of Montreal reader poll for 2011. Lots of good suggestions in there, especially for restaurants.

But most importantly - PM me and let me know details of your trip so that we can meet up when you get here.
 

segacs

Ski Diva Extraordinaire
Oh, and just a couple of clarifications / things to add to Cyn's posts:

-Bixi bike rentals are great for us local commuters, but aren't well suited to tourists, since they only allow for 30-minute rides at a time on your daily subscription. If you want to rent a bike for a day, better off renting one from one of the many bike rental shops, or try to get one of the aforementioned free ones at Mont-Royal Metro.

-STM employees (the ticket people at the metro stations) are usually supremely UN-helpful, unfortunately. A lot of people who come away from a visit to Montreal thinking that the people are rude were just unfortunate enough to have a run-in with one of them. They actually have a union regulation that they aren't required to speak English, only French, and some of them get really horribly rude when addressed in English. Ignore them. Most of us aren't STM workers. The system is easy, though - you can get your ticket at the vending machine at any station (press "English" for instructions in English) using a credit card. And every station has a map on the wall showing the lines and the stops. The STM website is a good starting place. Oh, and Google Maps is integrated with the STM, too.

-Cote St Luc BBQ locations closer to downtown are all closed, the only ones remaining are in the suburbs. It's not great rotisserie chicken anyway, IMHO. For much better chicken, try either one of the Portuguese rotisserie places along Duluth, or the famous Laurier BBQ (though I haven't been there since it got bought out by Gordon Ramsey and redone, so who knows if they've killed it by going too upscale?)

-I forgot to mention if you love chocolate, check out Juliette et Chocolat - there are three locations - St-Denis, St-Laurent and Laurier.

-Oh, and of course, needless to say, if you're planning a winter visit, there will surely be skiing involved. Tremblant day with Jilly and SkiBam? You up for it?
 

segacs

Ski Diva Extraordinaire
All with outdoor staircases (you have to wonder why these were thought to be a good idea in a city that gets a lot of snow).

I think it had something to do with tax regulations - having the outdoor staircases meant less indoor square footage and lower property tax, which made a big difference when these neighbourhoods actually were poor, immigrant-heavy and working-class. (These days they're very expensive.)

On the other hand, you haven't *truly* lived in Montreal until you've gone through a January moving day, trying to get a refrigerator up a snow-covered spiral staircase to a third-floor triplex with just the help of friends you've bribed with pizza.
 

cyn

Ski Diva Extraordinaire
Excellent advice for sure, but, even though I now live in the states, I am a Montrealer at heart, so therefore I must disagree with you about food i.e.: Cote St Luc BBQ.

First of all, do you consider Cote St Luc Rd near Decarie to be in the suburbs? That's the one I always hit when I'm in town.

I have indeed eaten the Portuguese chicken and roasted potatoes on the Main, and it was delicious, but it is not the same sort of thing at all.

And there's always Mtl smoked meat. Did you mention that?

As for the STM workers, it's weird, but they were all pretty rude when I lived there, but now when I'm visiting and play dumb, they're helpful and even marginally nice. Go figure.:noidea:
 

segacs

Ski Diva Extraordinaire
First of all, do you consider Cote St Luc Rd near Decarie to be in the suburbs? That's the one I always hit when I'm in town.

That depends. When I lived in Dollard, Cote St Luc was "the city". When I lived in NDG, Cote St Luc was "convenient". Now I live in the Plateau and yeah, it feels like going to the end of the universe to head out there.

But that's neither here nor there. I just meant that not very many tourists get out that way, since there isn't much of interest to tourists. So it's unlikely that someone new to the city would find themselves in CSL unless they were visiting someone who lived there, for instance.

I have indeed eaten the Portuguese chicken and roasted potatoes on the Main, and it was delicious, but it is not the same sort of thing at all.

Agreed. It's good, though.

And there's always Mtl smoked meat. Did you mention that?

I did mention Schwartz's, though most of the tourist guides do too. I don't actually eat smoked meat myself, so I can't give personal advice on that score, other than to say that there's *always* a lineup outside Schwartz's even in the middle of the night.

As for the STM workers, it's weird, but they were all pretty rude when I lived there, but now when I'm visiting and play dumb, they're helpful and even marginally nice. Go figure.:noidea:

Really? What's your secret?
 

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