There is quite the misconception of what constitutes skier type. Instead of looking at it as Beginner, Intermediate, or Expert skier types, it should be based on speeds you are skiing. Always skiing at slower than average speeds on easier terrain is Type 1, skiing at a variety of speeds on a variety of terrain is Type 2, always skiing aggressively at higher than average speeds is Type 3. The manufacturer's also allow a -1 or +3 setting for those that are either extremely cautious or racing at an elite level.
As a PSIA L3 instructor I have my bindings set as a type 2. I want my bindings to release if I get hit by an out of control beginner while I'm skiing at slower speeds, but they hold when I'm skiing aggressively-and yes I'm over 50, so the settings do decrease.
When you look at your DIN setting you must also realize that this is a starting point for the shop. If they have a computerized torque tester, they'll set the binding at the recommended setting to start with, and adjust up or down based on how the bindings actually test. Often times new Look/Rossignol bindings test very tight and I've had to set them down one number in order to get the torque reading "in range". So, even if your initial setting is a 5, don't assume that the shop is setting them too low if they put them at a 4 because they may have mechanically tested the binding. If a binding is older but still imdemnified by the manufacturer, the springs may have softened, and need to be cranked a little higher. Manufacturers allow settings to be adjusted 1 1/2 numbers in either direction to still be considered within range. Anything that tests out of that window is either worn and should be replaced, or may have an internal problem and should be sent back to the manufacturer if still under warranty.
I usually recommend that if you're unsure of your skier type, set it on the lower setting, and adjust up if you find yourself prereleasing.
As a PSIA L3 instructor I have my bindings set as a type 2. I want my bindings to release if I get hit by an out of control beginner while I'm skiing at slower speeds, but they hold when I'm skiing aggressively-and yes I'm over 50, so the settings do decrease.
When you look at your DIN setting you must also realize that this is a starting point for the shop. If they have a computerized torque tester, they'll set the binding at the recommended setting to start with, and adjust up or down based on how the bindings actually test. Often times new Look/Rossignol bindings test very tight and I've had to set them down one number in order to get the torque reading "in range". So, even if your initial setting is a 5, don't assume that the shop is setting them too low if they put them at a 4 because they may have mechanically tested the binding. If a binding is older but still imdemnified by the manufacturer, the springs may have softened, and need to be cranked a little higher. Manufacturers allow settings to be adjusted 1 1/2 numbers in either direction to still be considered within range. Anything that tests out of that window is either worn and should be replaced, or may have an internal problem and should be sent back to the manufacturer if still under warranty.
I usually recommend that if you're unsure of your skier type, set it on the lower setting, and adjust up if you find yourself prereleasing.
