waxing skis using the fiberlene method

[NewEnglandSkier]

So, the other night I waxed my skis with Swix CH6 since it has been and was still going to be quite cold this weekend. I used the drip method-melting the wax on the iron and letting it drip onto the ski and then ironing it in. However, being a hard wax, it was difficult to get off and basically chipped when I scraped it. (Does it matter if it chips off???)
Anyway, I want to try using the fiberlene method the next time I use a hard wax so that maybe I have less wax to try and scrape off. My question is in order to do this do I need to crayon the wax on instead of dripping it? If I crayon it on, how thick a layer do I need? Also do I iron it in like normal and then go over it again with the iron/fiberlene or do I just iron it with the fiberlene?
Thanks!

 

[Ellen]

If the CH 6 (4 is worse) get too thick it has a tendency to chip. That is why I switched from Swix, but that is a different issue. To use fiberlene, drip the wax or crayon whichever you prefer (the hard waxes are very hard to crayon I find). You put the sheet of fiberlene between the iron and the ski and iron away. 1 sheet per pair.

I also find it is helpful with the CH 4 or 6 to do a VERY light hot scrape right after waxing so that you have a thinner layer of wax. Let it set up/cure for an hour and then scrape - VERY sharp scraper is necessary. I sharpen mine 5 or 6 times on each ski. Better to leave a little wax on for the brushing than to chip it. Chipping pulls wax out of the base and the hard waxes don't penetrate that far to begin with. Brass or fine steel brush as the first post wax brush. Good luck.

 

[NewEnglandSkier]

Thank you!

 

[Ellen]

PS there are other cold waxes that don't have anywhere near the chipping problem that Swix does. 3 I've used that are much easier to use are from: Race Service (I forget the number of their Ultra cold) (Race-werks.com), Holmenkol Ultra; and Dominator Bullet and Psycho. There may be others also, these are just the one's I've used. With Swix, I did not like the chipping or the very high iron temps required for their cold waxes.

 

[marzNC]

Came across an entry on blog about ski tuning that includes comments about fiberlene that seemed useful. The topic is a review of irons for waxing skis, including advice if you want to get started by using a cheap clothes iron instead of an iron designed for waxing skis. One ski iron has a clip on the front to hold a strip of fiberlene in place as you iron.

 

[bounceswoosh]

Wait, I don't understand - what is the fiberlene supposed to do?

 

[pinto]

I use it to soak up extra wax so scraping is easier. From one of the links above:

"Fiberlene is used between the base of the iron, and on top of the wax layer on the ski. It is used to prevent burning the base of the ski at higher iron temperatures, such as when using cold temperature wax, like Swix CH4 or CH6. It also helps soak up excess wax, preventing it from dripping off the ski into the bindings, or onto the floor. Alternatively, fiberlene allows you to use less wax without risking a burned base. "

 

[bounceswoosh]

I use it to soak up extra wax so scraping is easier. From one of the links above:

"Fiberlene is used between the base of the iron, and on top of the wax layer on the ski. It is used to prevent burning the base of the ski at higher iron temperatures, such as when using cold temperature wax, like Swix CH4 or CH6. It also helps soak up excess wax, preventing it from dripping off the ski into the bindings, or onto the floor. Alternatively, fiberlene allows you to use less wax without risking a burned base. "

So ... related to the OP's question ... would Fiberlene be a good investment for those of us who can't figure out how to get thorough coverage without applying a million pounds of wax and then having to scrape it all off?

 

[pinto]

Yes

 

[NewEnglandSkier]

I did end up trying the fiberlene method this past winter when I used a harder/cold temp wax and it seemed to work out pretty well. After ironing I had less wax on the ski, so it was easier to scrape off without chipping.

 

[sibhusky]

I railed against the extra expense of Fiberlene, but after finally trying it, I love it. Mostly because soaking up (and helping to spread) the wax before I leave the ski to cool shortens the scraping time substantially. I like to put a lot of wax on rather than doing the crayon method, so normally it takes a while to get it all off and there's wax all over the place. I do it for all my waxing.

As for colder waxes, I use a light warm scrape just after I wax and before it cools and then warm up the ski again to scrape it off. Otherwise, you're chipping it off and the bits are ending up in your hair.

 

[volklgirl]

Instead if using Fiberlene, I just touch the wax to the iron, then the iron to the ski, and repeat. When I get to the other end, I do a full iron to mix and rewarm, then hot scrap and set aside. That's cheaper in both wax and extra stuff (Fiberlene), and pretty darned easy.

 

[bounceswoosh]

In researching this, I ran across this article. Someone seems a little too excited about waxing their skis.

(Describing the waxing process)

If this is a new pair of skis – this process must be repeated 7-10 times. If you are not using Raceservice SBC wax – you should repeat this process 20 times. Note when conditioning new skis the wax should left to cool completely prior to scraping.

https://bbsef.org/wp-content/uploads/tuningguide.pdf

 

[sibhusky]

BBSEF is a race team at Bridget Bowl. Not surprised they want their kids having fast skis. My daughter was told to do that, plus a wax everyday after training so that her race skis were ready when it counted.

I actually sort of do that as part of pre-season prep, but probably not quite that bad... It's really half a season, maybe more, before the skis are really fast enough for cat tracks. New skis are really slow.

 

[bounceswoosh]

BBSEF is a race team at Bridget Bowl. Not surprised they want their kids having fast skis. My daughter was told to do that, plus a wax everyday after training so that her race skis were ready when it counted.

I actually sort of do that as part of pre-season prep, but probably not quite that bad... It's really half a season, maybe more, before the skis are really fast enough for cat tracks. New skis are really slow.

I guess, if you're excited about new skis, it's not such a difficult chore ... doubly so if you're a race kid with new skis.