volklgirl
Ski Diva Extraordinaire
Keeping you boards performing “like new”
A discussion of waxing skis with a beginner or intermediate skier inevitably leads to “Waxed skis go faster and I don’t want to go faster”. While the basic premise of waxed ski = faster ski is correct, that’s only a very small part of the story. A waxed ski also turns more easily, glides more smoothly, and has a longer life span than a neglected ski. Ski care methods run the gamut from the most basic maintenance to having an on-site tuning bench for condition-specific race waxing. Fortunately for most of us, basic care of ski equipment is quick and simple.
BASIC CARE AND FEEDING
Boots: Always dry your boots after every use – either by air drying or using a boot heater/dryer (a hair dryer may be used, but only on the very lowest heat setting and with constant attendance to avoid melting or searing the liner and footbed). Once dry, keep them securely buckled to help the plastic retain its shape. Before storing for the summer, remove the liners and allow the shell and footboard to dry and air-out to avoid mildew, then reassemble to store. If you find that the shell below the liner seems to get wet on a regular basis, the culprit is probably a leaky toe dam (the little rubber part that sits at the end of the shell opening just above the toes). The best fix for this is to apply duct tape over the toe dam (you can even color coordinate the duct tape and the boots now). Try to avoid hanging or carrying your boots by the powerstrap – it puts added stress on the strap and the connectors on the shell (or liner if it is attached there). Avoid walking in your boots – it wears the soles unevenly and contaminates them with dirt, rocks, etc., possibly compromising their ability to release from the binding in the event of a fall.
Skis: Always dry your skis thoroughly after every use to avoid getting rusty edges. Never store them in a car-top box or anywhere else they may stay damp. Avoid storing them standing on a cement floor as well, since this also induces rusting (otherwise, they can be stored horizontally or standing up). Ski straps should be used to avoid having the skis rub together at the contact points, causing base damage and edge rust.
SKI TUNING
A complete ski tune consists of base work, edge work, waxing, and finish work. Each of these components directly affect the way a ski will handle (a ski without wax will be sticky and balky underfoot, a ski with a bad edge tune or non-flat base can be grabby and unpredictable or feel like it slides out every time it’s put on edge). Every skier should at least understand the basics of tuning so that they can talk to their chosen tuning professional about their own equipment preferences if they choose not to do their own tuning. Unless your skis have been without care for some time or have sustained visible damage, you should request a hand tune. A machine or stone grind removes a minute layer of both base and edge on each pass shortening the useable life of the ski, so this should only be done if the base is no longer flat or has lost its structure (a small pattern ground into the base of the ski to break suction).
The main benefit of doing your own tuning is cost, of course. Additional benefits include tuning to your own exact specifications, being able to wax for current conditions, and of course the joy of looking at your perfectly tuned ski knowing you did it! For those that shudder at the thought of doing their own work, try waxing to start….pick up a pair of junk skis from a resale shop or yard sale and practice on them before trying your hand on your personal boards.
General tuning equipment needed:
Below is a general list of tuning equipment that may be needed. All tuning work will require a work area, a vacuum cleaner, and brake retainers. If you will only be waxing add an iron, plastic scraper, block of wax, and a wax brush. For base work add the 2 files, a Scotch Brite pad, and a metal scraper. For edge work add an edger sharpener (or file and guide) and a gummi stone. A citrus based cleaner is also great to have on hand for cleaning yucky wax and late season goop off your bases.
A work bench or vise and a shop vac - as you can see, your work area doesn’t need to be fancy (or neat):
A few simple tools (from left to right, front row – 2 big honkin’ rubber bands (the ones that come on fresh broccoli work perfectly) or actual brake retainers, a plastic and/or metal scraper (even an old credit card will work for wax), a gummi stone, a Scotch Brite pad, a file and file guide or base/side edge sharpener (pictured here), and a wax bush; back row – a block of wax (my fave is Hertel Hot Sauce because it’s cheap and works well in most conditions), a waxing iron (an old iron with aluminum foil on the bottom to cover the steam holes will work as well, but NOT a travel iron which doesn’t have even enough temperature regulation), a large bastard file (big teeth), and a large mill file (fine teeth):
Brake retainers in use – the Broccoli Band - hook the band onto one brake arm, press down firmly on the brake boot pad to raise the brake arms, then CAREFULLY stretch the band over the rear binding housing and hook it around the other brake arm:
Brake retainers in use – the SKS brake retainer (see my review on this beauty here: https://www.theskidiva.com/forums/showthread.php?t=742)
For all edge and base work, use minimal pressure with light strokes and remove only what’s necessary
Base work: To perform at its best, a ski base must be perfectly flat or “true”. As the ski ages or cures and gets used, the base may warp or become worn so it’s no longer flat. A non-flat base may be:
“Edge high” (concave)
Symptoms of a concave base include
- “Railing”-feeling like the ski is on railroad tracks
- Difficulty starting or finishing a turn
- Skis that feel slow
Symptoms of a convex base include
- “Swimming”-feeling like the ski is skidding across the snow
- Difficulty carving a turn
- A lack of edge grip
Another piece of base work includes establishing the “structure” of the base. Structure is a minute pattern ground into the base to help break the suction created by snow melting as the ski moves across it. Structuring is a natural part of a stone grind, but is a separate step for hand tuning and requires a specialized tool. Structure can be fine or coarse and can run straight along the length of the ski, diagonally across the ski, or cross-hatch (diagonally from both directions). The desired structure pattern is determined by intended ski use and type and temperature of the snow. The tiny lines running horizontally in this picture is one style of structure: