TR Taos Feb. 10-16, 2018

[Olesya Chornoguz]

Looking good @Olesya Chornoguz

Thank you!

 

[marzNC]

I know which instructor I want to "try" next time, either Derek G. (he was Eunice's instructor) or Dano, aka drill sergeant, I only had him for 1 day. But KingGrump said he is good.

Derek was my boyfriend's instructor for a level 5 or 6 group this week, and he was fantastic. I also skied with that group briefly after I got separated from my group one morning and Derek nailed everything that's wrong with my skiing after watching me ski for about 30 seconds. I would definitely recommend him.

My group (level 8) had Dano, and he was also fantastic. We did do a lot of drills, but given the conditions (basically no off piste runs open), I thought that was pretty appropriate. He was also super thoughtful and had great answers for every question I asked him. He clearly has a very deep understanding of everything he teaches (as did Derek (as do most of the instructors at Taos, I get the feeling)).

The week overall was really good. The lesson value you get out of a Ski Week for $220 is pretty unreal. Taos, aside from this year's lack of snow, is a gorgeous mountain with what looks like a lot of really great terrain; we'll definitely get back for a long weekend in a better snow year to really ski the place.

I had heard of Derek before. An article in 2016 included a description of how he surprised a man who considered himself an "expert."

https://www.santafenewmexican.com/o...cle_1023e5a4-7398-58ab-9757-728652acc269.html

I had a chance to ride up with Derek and chat one afternoon. Only groomers were available that afternoon. Following Derek on his Stöckli Laser SC skis was a treat. Not only for the pacing but to see how far up on edge he would take them when making medium turns when not going particularly fast.

As a few long time Taos regulars know, there is an "instructor" posse to gathers around 1:00 after the afternoon lineup selections for group lessons are done. Instructors who feel like free skiing together welcome non-instructors. They also actively coach new instructors. Meaning a senior instructor will call over a young instructor who is part of the group at the top of the lift to have them follow for that run. They also give advice during the lift rides. The senior instructors are well aware that many of them are over 50 and that a new generation of instructors needs to be encouraged.

I was introduced to the instructor posse by Mr. and Mrs. KingGrump, who I skied with for the first time a few years ago at Snowbird. They have been doing Ski Weeks since 1989 and are very, very smooth skiers in any terrain. They are from NYC, retired, and are spending the season at Taos at a house owned by a family member. They know all the long time instructors. They said Derek has gotten stronger in the last couple years, partially because he realized that at his age--mid or late 70--ski conditioning during the off-season is more important than when he was younger. He's been teaching at Taos since the 1980-81 season.

The other long-time instructor I had a chance to chat with was Bill's instructor, Dan R. Dan's group gathers for apres ski in the Hondo Bar at 4:00 on Friday afternoon at the end of a Ski Week. I crashed the party to hear some stories because he is retiring after this season. Dan also started in 1980-81.

Fair to say that the list of names of good instructors I have is growing. Haven't heard of anyone who did a Ski Week who didn't think their instructor was very experienced. Although it still matters whether or not the instructor and group is a good fit. Heard of a case where a woman wasn't happy with her group during a Ladies Week last year because a small group friends in that group were . . . well . . . jerks.

 

[marzNC]

Recently learned that the Columbine Inn offers the current rate to people who book in advance for the following season. Thinking seriously about what week makes sense for a return trip to Taos for another Ski Week next year. Have to choose between the advantages of doing the lessons early in the season versus going later when more black terrain is likely to be open. Based on my experience in 2017, not really ready for Taos double-black terrain until after a few more Ski Weeks. Although I would go with an instructor who thought I was ready. Preferably double-black terrain that was open, as opposed to a tree run.

 

[newboots]

That was a fun article, @marzNC ! There's a lot of depth, richness and friendship in the skiing world.

 

[marzNC]

That was a fun article, @marzNC ! There's a lot of depth, richness and friendship in the skiing world.

Yes, indeed. The trick for places like Taos that are farther away from population centers or major airports is how to maintain the feel that drew people there 20-30 years ago while finding new people willing to spend a little more time and money to go farther for a ski vacation.

With low snow conditions, it was very easy to meet people who have been skiing at Taos for years. They are the ones who didn't cancel their trips because they knew it would be a good time even with limited terrain.

 

[marzNC]

Here are some updated notes about options for dinner. We've found that it's easier to eat relatively early, meaning 6:00 or even 5:30.

* Taos Common Fire - does not take reservations, only open Thu-Sun noon-9pm, not too far past Arroyo Seco when driving from TSV to Taos. Opened in June 2016, small menu but everything is locally sourced and really good! Pretty sure the wine list is good.

* Hotel St. Bernard - right in TSV, at the base of Lift 1. Classic French food. Dinner is included for guests staying at the hotel, so limited space for others during normal winters. Reservations are required and should be made well in advance, then confirmed the week before. Best to find out the menu before choosing a night. For instance, lobster night is not a good choice if anyone is allergic to shellfish. The fixed 3-4 course menu is served family style promptly at 6:30, with the expectation that people will spend a couple hours enjoying the meal and the ambiance. The Mayer brothers, Jean and Dadou, serve people personally. Our group of six had a separate table. There are tables for 4, 6, 8.

* Bavarian Inn - regular menu is authentic Austrian. For the regular menu, save room for sharing a dessert, or two if a large enough group. Tuesday night is fondue night with the choice of cheese or beef. For those with a 4WD car, it's pretty easy to get a table midweek even making a call at 4:30 for that evening, assuming willing to eat early. The Bavarian provides shuttle service but getting a ride requires making a reservation at least a day or two in advance. Best to call, the online reservation system is weird. Expect to be driving on snow even if it hasn't snowed in a while. Near the base of Lift 4. On Saturdays, if you have a lift ticket then possible to drive and park to avoid the line at the main base first thing in the morning.

* Tim's Stray Dog Cantina - right in TSV, open 8am-9pm. A bar and eating place where locals go. Homemade red and green chile. Also serves breakfast and lunch.

* Sabroso in Arroyo Seco - between TSV and Taos. The entrance drive doesn't inspire confidence, but it turns out that Sabroso has great food and wine, and is quite a nice place for a leisurely dinner. The building is an adobe structure that is 150 years old. Best to make a reservation.

* Hondo Restaurant - inside the Snakedance condo building. Heard from an instructor that it's possible to do take out from the Hondo that's not too expensive and good.

* 192 at the Blake - inside the Blake Lodge, entrance next to Taos Ski Shop. A bar that also has pizza and small plates.

* Bumps Market, on lower level of the Snakedance Condo, towards the entrance to the Blake. Basic convenience store food such as instant noodles, canned soup, soda, beer, etc.

 

[marzNC]

For people who are wondering if a Ski Week is good for an intermediate, check out this trip report from Jan 2018. Bottom line is that @alison wong is planning to do another Ski Week sooner rather than later.

https://www.theskidiva.com/forums/i...4-18-1-19-18-intermediates-trip-report.22378/

 

[santacruz skier]

Here are some updated notes about options for dinner. We've found that it's easier to eat relatively early, meaning 6:00 or even 5:30.

* Taos Common Fire - does not take reservations, only open Thu-Sun noon-9pm, not too far past Arroyo Seco when driving from TSV to Taos. Opened in June 2016, small menu but everything is locally sourced and really good! Pretty sure the wine list is good.

* Hotel St. Bernard - right in TSV, at the base of Lift 1. Classic French food. Dinner is included for guests staying at the hotel, so limited space for others during normal winters. Reservations are required and should be made well in advance, then confirmed the week before. Best to find out the menu before choosing a night. For instance, lobster night is not a good choice if anyone is allergic to shellfish. The fixed 3-4 course menu is served family style promptly at 6:30, with the expectation that people will spend a couple hours enjoying the meal and the ambiance. The Mayer brothers, Jean and Dadou, serve people personally. Our group of six had a separate table. There are tables for 4, 6, 8.

* Bavarian Inn - regular menu is authentic Austrian. For the regular menu, save room for sharing a dessert, or two if a large enough group. Tuesday night is fondue night with the choice of cheese or beef. For those with a 4WD car, it's pretty easy to get a table midweek even making a call at 4:30 for that evening, assuming willing to eat early. The Bavarian provides shuttle service but getting a ride requires making a reservation at least a day or two in advance. Best to call, the online reservation system is weird. Expect to be driving on snow even if it hasn't snowed in a while. Near the base of Lift 4. On Saturdays, if you have a lift ticket then possible to drive and park to avoid the line at the main base first thing in the morning.

* Tim's Stray Dog Cantina - right in TSV, open 8am-9pm. A bar and eating place where locals go. Homemade red and green chile. Also serves breakfast and lunch.

* Sabroso in Arroyo Seco - between TSV and Taos. The entrance drive doesn't inspire confidence, but it turns out that Sabroso has great food and wine, and is quite a nice place for a leisurely dinner. The building is an adobe structure that is 150 years old. Best to make a reservation.

* Hondo Restaurant - inside the Snakedance condo building. Heard from an instructor that it's possible to do take out from the Hondo that's not too expensive and good.

* 192 at the Blake - inside the Blake Lodge, entrance next to Taos Ski Shop. A bar that also has pizza and small plates.

* Bumps Market, on lower level of the Snakedance Condo, towards the entrance to the Blake. Basic convenience store food such as instant noodles, canned soup, soda, beer, etc.

Restaurants stated above were very good! Thoroughly enjoyed them especially Sabroso on my birthday! Thanks to @marzNC , @nopoleskier , @Olesya Chornoguz , and Bill for a very fun evening and delicious dinner!

 

[Olesya Chornoguz]

Recently learned that the Columbine Inn offers the current rate to people who book in advance for the following season. Thinking seriously about what week makes sense for a return trip to Taos for another Ski Week next year. Have to choose between the advantages of doing the lessons early in the season versus going later when more black terrain is likely to be open. Based on my experience in 2017, not really ready for Taos double-black terrain until after a few more Ski Weeks. Although I would go with an instructor who thought I was ready. Preferably double-black terrain that was open, as opposed to a tree run.

I think that lot of Taos single blacks are quite challenging too. Al's run comes to mind. Most (not all) Taos single black are more challenging challenging than in many out West ski resorts, IMO. I agree that Taos double black are really challenging. Other than Kachina I don't really think about skiing any of the Taos double blacks when I go back for another ski week next year.

 

[nopoleskier]

It was a really fun trip! If you are looking for a tune up in your skiing the Taos Ski School lives up to its' reputation.
I've been skiing forever and figured teaching an old dog new tricks would be tough. I am impressed with the outcome; the fine tuning I was given made my skiing easier and smoother especially in the bumps. I got a lot out of skiing with the same expert instructor and having the camaraderie and well matched small class was nice.

I agree, finding an instructor you click with makes for a great week of ski instruction. I see why many come back over and over (2 in our group have been going for 30yrs!)
I will definitely go back for another ski week with my same instructor. @Olesya Chornoguz and I were with Peter Blake, son of the founders of Taos, Our class was well matched ski experience and expectations. I like that they fit you with others 'your speed' and if you want more or less challenge just speak up and they'll move you to a class that will work.
There were no more than 7 people in the co-ed class groups, one gal in ours switched instructors so we had 6.

While there wasn't as much snow as last year, I greatly enjoyed the ski week and I do love Taos, the fall lines are superb and I do like steep pitches. I will definitely go back for years to come.. it's one of 'those' mountains you can enjoy over and over again.. Skiing with a legend was a treat, learning about how and who cut the trails. Mom/Mrs. Rhoda Blake is a woman I wish I could have met! The entire Blake family and the history behind Taos is very interesting. At the ski off 80yr old Jean Mayer skier extraordinaire (St Bernard) observes and helps place students in the correct group. WOW!! And then he glides away in perfect elegant skiing to his lodge and will serve you up classic French cuisine.
To ski with history and experience at a timeless resort with lodges like the St. Bernard, the Bavarian, not a lot of glitz just great skiing (and skiers) it was so wonderful and so right up my alley. I will relive my runs this summer when my SADD disorder sets in, hopefully can tide me over until next year at Taos!

I'll add Pizano's Pizza https://www.taospizza.com/ just before the traffic light down in town (Taos) 2 NY'ers from Utica NY that is 40miles west of me make really good NY style with a Swestern twist and traditional and gourmet pizzas. Sabrosa is my new favorite..

As for Trail rating. I agree, Yes, Taos single blacks rival many Mt's double blacks and provide plenty of steep challenging ski runs, and the fall lines are sooo nice! Taos Double blacks or are they Triple black?? :-) "What the #1" and "What the #2" (yeah that "what the") are beyond my skiing at this stage of my life, but I do look forward to Kachina and Als and the trees....

Yes I am looking forward to planning next years trip!

 

[marzNC]

I think that lot of Taos single blacks are quite challenging too. Al's run comes to mind. Most (not all) Taos single black are more challenging challenging than in many out West ski resorts, IMO. I agree that Taos double black are really challenging. Other than Kachina I don't really think about skiing any of the Taos double blacks when I go back for another ski week next year.

As for Trail rating. I agree, Yes, Taos single blacks rival many Mt's double blacks and provide plenty of steep challenging ski runs, and the fall lines are sooo nice! Taos Double blacks or are they Triple black?? :-) "What the #1" and "What the #2" (yeah that "what the") are beyond my skiing at this stage of my life, but I do look forward to Kachina and Als and the trees....

Well, last season when there was so much snow I skied three double-blacks there were quite different: an open bowl, steep tight trees, steep but open bump trail. I have absolutely no interest in the narrow chutes off the ridges. What I found is that even though I didn't do a Ski Week, my bump skiing improved a lot because there were so many bump sections of varying degrees of difficulty from easy to extreme, with or without trees. Hard to get that sort of mileage on bumps in most resorts, including destination resorts in the Rockies.

Main Street on Kachina was relatively straightforward because the bumps were soft and not as big as usual. Steeper than Liberty at Big Sky but that main reason that I stopped several times on the way down was that skiing at over 11,000 ft is noticeably more effort even after a few days at high altitude.

Getting into Lorelei Trees was my mistake. I was trying to find Lorelei. Jason was following me. We side slipped and maneuvered our way out and over to Lorelei. Helped that I saw an instructor thru the trees. Not going in there again any time soon. Enjoyed doing Lorelei from the top later that week, which is a black.

Jason and I went to Longhorn with an instructor. We did a one-shot group lesson because of our travel schedule. We ended up with a semi-private lesson with a young man who was a former racer who didn't have PSIA teaching credentials. Essentially a guide, which was actually okay in that case. Had I wanted to, we could have switched instructors. There were plenty of others in the line up that Monday, including a friend who is an Examiner. Something like $75 for 2.5 hours. However, this instructor probably didn't have enough movement analysis experience to evaluate what we were capable of skiing. We both fell and slid at the top of Longhorn, which is pretty steep. It's an open trail and the bumps were big but not huge. Luckily, no harm done. We enjoyed the rest of the trail, which is a collection of bump sections with short run outs in between.

The next day, Jason and I explored the blacks on the lower mountain next to Alf's. Had fun on those trails. Looking forward to skiing them again sooner rather than later.

Pictures from Feb 2017 with >100 inches of snow coverage

Kachina Main Street


Lorelei Trees - taken sitting down


Longhorn - Jason in blue at top (center), instructor in yellow


A middle bump section on Longhorn

 

[santacruz skier]

Wow.. A lot more snow in 2017!

 

[marzNC]

A few more pics . . .

Jean Mayer serving lamb with ratatouille, yummy!


Ladies Ski Week intermediate group included women from a MN ski club


@Olesya Chornoguz finishes Moe's, a black off Lift 7 that was not groomed after a 9+ inch storm

 

[marzNC]

TSV is working hard to improve the experience for families with kids getting started on skis/boards or beginners in general. Over the summer of 2017, the access to the Children's Ski School was completely reworked. Now there is a gondolita--also known as a pulse gondola--between the Children's Ski School and the main base. While there is someone watching, no liftie assists with loading or unloading the gondola cabins. (Same concept used at Stowe between Spruce and Mansfield sides.) Also replaced the chairlift with a triple. There is a separate teaching area on the other side of Lift 1 where the group lessons for adults start that has a magic carpet tunnel and a chairlift.

Fair to say that families who ski TSV regularly have kids who become very good skiers at an early age. The KingGrumps' son was skiing Al's Run during his first day at ski school . . . at age 5. Much to the surprise of his father who started him on skis at age 2.

TSV provides free instruction and rental gear for local school kids. The schools and parents only have to figure out transportation and proper clothing. Local adults get discounted rates for Ski Weeks.

Gondola between main base near Blake and the Children's Ski School


Novice area used for group lessons and easy practice

 

[marzNC]

Couple more pics of places that will be a little different next season.

Lift 4 on the Kachina side was closed. It starts just above the Bavarian Inn. Undoubted lack of snow was an issue but could also be due to lack of staff. It was clear that not as many people were working as usual. The Phoenix building with food service will be renovated over the summer.

The long road from the Phoenix Grill side to the main base is call "Round the World" by the locals. Usually possible to finish with only poling on one short section. The alternative when starting at the base of Lift 7 requires riding Lift 7 (no safety bar), Lift 7A (short center pole double), and skiing down from the summit (top of Lift 2). The timing is pretty much the same, depending on how fast someone skis Bambi (blue) and White Feather (green).

The room across from the Taos Ski Shop that was the Welcome Center in 2016-17 was renamed the Preview Center for 2017-18. Had info about the construction planned to rework the roads and to build more lodging. Setting up a Mountain Collective pass was done in the Taos Ski Shop or the Season Pass office next to the locker room this season. Still no way to link a credit card for additional days.

Lift 4 below Kachina


View of the main base from the end of Rubezahl where it merges with Pioneer (green). The area to the right of the steeple will be new buildings by next season if all goes according to plan.

 

[marzNC]

TSV has a computerized database system that makes it relatively easy to handle registration for the MCP, ski school, and/or rental gear from Taos Ski Shop. I started by filling out info for the waiver for the MCP on a computer at the season pass office. When I was signing up for a Ski Week, I only had to add some info since my address and DOB was already in the system. When I went to rent demo skis (free with Ladies Ski Week), I only need to add stats related to setting up bindings.

 

[santacruz skier]

I've been meaning to post that I did not have the MCP (I have the Epic Pass) and found a link on the TSV website to Getskitickets.com. I bought 6/7 days senior for $346. That's <$58 per day so a good deal. I now see that getskitickets.com sells tickets for many ski resorts and may purchase mammoth tickets through them..

 

[marzNC]

Looking around for something else about Taos, found a NY Times article from Jan 2016 by a expert skier about his experience exploring TSV for the first time with a friend who knew it well. That was the first season for the Kachina lift but before the new hotel was built or even completely planned after the sale to Louis Bacon.

What the NY Times writer didn't experience was a Taos Ski Week. While the mountain is worth a trip on the merits of the terrain, it's the Taos Ski Week that makes TSV truly unique and worth the extra travel effort. It's certainly why there are people who return year after year for a ski vacation for 10, 20, even 30 years.

During Summer 2018, the big renovation of the base area buildings will get done. Also, Lift 1 will change to a high-speed lift, the first detachable at TSV.

https://liftblog.com/2017/03/20/taos-to-build-new-beginner-lift-pulse-gondola-first-detachable/

 

[marzNC]

* Sabroso in Arroyo Seco - between TSV and Taos. The entrance drive doesn't inspire confidence, but it turns out that Sabroso has great food and wine, and is quite a nice place for a leisurely dinner. The building is an adobe structure that is 150 years old. Best to make a reservation.

* Hondo Restaurant - inside the Snakedance condo building. Heard from an instructor that it's possible to do take out from the Hondo that's not too expensive and good.

* 192 at the Blake - inside the Blake Lodge, entrance next to Taos Ski Shop. A bar that also has pizza and small plates.

While the skiing at Taos and Ski Weeks remain as good as before, there have been significant changes in lodging and dining options since 2019. That's especially true in and within a couple miles of the Taos Ski Valley base village. Here's updated info as of 2022.

The Hondo Restaurant and 192 at the Blake are still in the base village. The Bavarian was bought by the resort and is mainly for lunch and aprés lounging, although they have a special dinner option.

Cid's opened up a Mountain Market at TSV that offers more upscale food options than the Bumps Market. There are limited hot food options in the late afternoon that can good for a take-out dinner in a slopeside room.

The Columbine Inn and Austing Haus that had nice rooms only a couple miles from TSV were bought by the resort for employee housing.

Sabroso's is still open in Arroyo Seco. Aceq is another good restaurant we discovered there after 2018.

Pizano's Pizza still has great pizza. It's just outside the town of Taos, near the turn onto the mountain road that goes up to TSV. Best to call ahead to check what days they are open and if indoor dining is an option if that's of interest.

 

[diymom]

Did anyone try the new pizza place last year that replaced Tim's Stray Dog?