So what SHOULD a Diva know about bindings?

[Sheena]

Ski Diva's thread made me think, that I know nothing about bindings. What is important to look for in a binding?

 

[shnu]

I think it's important that the binding is compatibel with the ski. I think there aren't many Divas that use skis < 75 cm under the binding. But as I've just read in another firum there are bindings that are only compatibel with skis > 75 cm.

Further it's necessary that the brakes (???) are wide enough, especially if you're going to buy a fat ski you should take a closer look.

Also the DIN is an important factor. I've heard from other skiers, that it is the best if your DIN, dependeing on weight, heigth, experience, type of skier, boot sole lenght, ... is in the middle of the bindings DIN-interval. for example your DIN is 6-7 a 12-13 binding would be perfect.

Of course the binding should be made of good quality/material. Depending hof often you ski and your type of skiing you will prefer a lighter binding, maybe not only made of plastic.

Depending on the thing with plates I've no idea, as I don't have these on my twins.

Well that's everything that comes into my mind right now. I'm not sure if it's all correct, but I'm cinvinced the other divas might help.


One last point, that come into my mind: there are skiers that prefer that the color of the binding fits the ski (not me) :D

 

[altagirl]

I think it's important that the binding is compatibel with the ski. I think there aren't many Divas that use skis < 75 cm under the binding. But as I've just read in another firum there are bindings that are only compatibel with skis > 75 cm.

Further it's necessary that the brakes (???) are wide enough, especially if you're going to buy a fat ski you should take a closer look.

Brakes are the only reason bindings would be incompatible with skis due to width that I've ever heard of. And almost all models (other than some race bindings) have replaceable brakes, so you just need to find wide brakes to go with the bindings you choose. OR - you can often bend them yourself if you're feeling adventurous. You just need to make sure they're wide enough that they go around the ski and have enough length to engage properly when the boot is out of the binding.

Also the DIN is an important factor. I've heard from other skiers, that it is the best if your DIN, dependeing on weight, heigth, experience, type of skier, boot sole lenght, ... is in the middle of the bindings DIN-interval. for example your DIN is 6-7 a 12-13 binding would be perfect..

It doesn't have to be totally in the middle of the range. I wouldn't want to ski with them totally maxed out, but I usually ski at an 8 on bindings that go to 12.

Of course the binding should be made of good quality/material. Depending hof often you ski and your type of skiing you will prefer a lighter binding, maybe not only made of plastic...

That's really the reason I generally go with DIN 12 bindings and why a lot of guys go with DIN 14+ bindings. The lower DIN ones are lighter (and cheaper) but they usually involve more plastic and less metal. I'll take a little more weight on an alpine binding in tradeoff for something made a little stronger that has a good solid feel to it.

Depending on the thing with plates I've no idea, as I don't have these on my twins....

Plates are removable on some skis, but basically they started off as something that gives you more leverage and keeps racers from "booting out" (which would be nearly impossible on a lot of fat skis). They can also stiffen up the ski, so it depends on the plate system and whether or not you'd think that's a good thing. On powder skis most people like a flat mount with no plate so the ski retains a soft, even flex.

Beyond that - different brands have slightly different release concepts. The Rossignol/Look bindings tend to have more elasticity than Markers or Atomics, for example. That means if you start to release but then your weight goes back where it belongs (you make a quick recovery), the binding moves towards releasing but will spring back to the closed position if you recover. With less elastic bindings if you make that first move towards release - they release. Which you prefer is a personal thing.

There are also things like snow clearance that come into play for some people. I'm a big fan of the Look/Rossi design with the turntable style heels that you can actually pull up on to step in. It's helpful if you're in deep snow and trying to get skis back on but don't have a good flat/solid surface to step on. They also feel (to me) like they have a good solid engagement and can deal with a little snow stuck on your boots - it just squishes out. Some bindings OTOH are really picky and if you have snow stuck on your boot, every last bit needs to come off or they won't go on or stay on. If you're just putting your skis on once a day - it's probably not an issue either way. If you're using a tram where your skis come off every run or hiking inbounds with your skis off or whatever else - it may be more of an issue to you.

 

[abc]

There are also things like snow clearance that come into play for some people. I'm a big fan of the Look/Rossi design with the turntable style heels that you can actually pull up on to step in. It's helpful if you're in deep snow and trying to get skis back on but don't have a good flat/solid surface to step on.

I didn't realize Look is one of the rare few that has that featuer. Yes, I found that very useful in softer snow. For a powder virgin, especially. (hint, you're going to come out of the binding in deep powder, especially the first few runs, and trying to get back in is...tricky!) I picked Look mostly because it's got pretty good reviews and little negative feedback. I guess I choose right.

 

[altagirl]

I was thinking about this a bit and I hope all the info doesn't make it more intimidating to shop.

Because REALLY, all you need to know is this:

What is your DIN setting (any and every shop will have a chart and you/they can figure it out) and does it fall within the range of the binding you are looking at?

All bindings being sold today are safe, they work, and unless you're looking at race bindings or something, you can change out the brakes to accomodate fat skis. If you're shopping for bindings for fat skis - ask about fat brakes. Problem solved.

That's about it. Everything else boils down to personal preference. There are plenty of people with strong brand preferences, but it's like debating between a Ford and a Chevy pickup truck to haul something. Make sure it can handle the load (DIN setting) and then deciding between brands comes down to the little details of things you prefer, the price, aesthetics, etc. You can nitpick and research and listen to 1000 guys argue about which is better... but don't stress over it.

 

[volklgirl]

Another consideration is the type and quality of the AFD (Anti Friction Device).

It's the pad that the toe lug of the boot sits on and is designed to reduce friction between the boot sole and the binding so that the boot toe releases smoothly and consistently when needed. In most bindings, this will be a white rectangle of plastic (Teflon). Some bindings, however, use an actual moving part and offer more consistent release and are less affected by boot sole contamination like dirt, gravel, snow, and just general wear. Both Marker and Tyrolia offer this "gliding AFD"; Marker uses a metal plate that slides through the binding plate and Tyrolia uses a continuous rubber belt.

Some Salomon bindings offer "upward release" at the toe piece, but there's much debate on how well it works and its necessity.

With the exception of the "race plate" which is designed to add rise to the binding and prevent boot-out as AG mentioned, most system and plate-style bindings allow only the toe piece of the binding to be mounted directly to the ski while the heel piece "floats" on the plate or track. This keeps the heel piece firmly in contact with the boot sole but allows the ski the bend fully and completely under the binding, eliminating the flat spot in the ski's arc created by the boot sole. This ability to utilize the full arc of the ski was one of the first inroads made in the path to success for our current super-shape skis and is part of the reason you'll find the system binding on most groomer-zoomers, but not twin or powder skis.

Because REALLY, all you need to know is this:

What is your DIN setting (any and every shop will have a chart and you/they can figure it out) and does it fall within the range of the binding you are looking at?

All bindings being sold today are safe, they work, and unless you're looking at race bindings or something, you can change out the brakes to accomodate fat skis. If you're shopping for bindings for fat skis - ask about fat brakes. Problem solved.

Absolutely!

 

[LilaBear]

All the information provided here is hugely beneficial to me. Thank you. I just got Marker 11 Piston Control Bindings. Because I didn't know anything about bindings and went on price. The piston part is supposed to dampen the vibrations. I'll let you know if I can tell.

And, as always, the education is presented in a clear way with an understanding about what this sounds/feels like to the newbies. I love the "here's the basics" that you need to know, and" here are the extras ...." so I don't get too confused.

I got the two sets of bindings to mount on my new Diva-inspired Hart Skis. Later in the season I'll be looking for the final ski for my 3 ski Quiver, and then I will really want to know what I'm looking for and how it will respond to the conditions etc. But I have to be out there skiing and demoing before I can take an expensive decision like that. This info will help me ask the right questions, of myself and others.

 

[Sheena]

And, as always, the education is presented in a clear way with an understanding about what this sounds/feels like to the newbies. I love the "here's the basics" that you need to know, and" here are the extras ...." so I don't get too confused.

Isn't it great?! I love it!

Thanks Divas