New Climber...advice on gear

[Telluride Ski Babe]

Hello climbing divas,

I just went out yesterday for my very first climb...what an experience! I've always been afraid of heights and thought this might hamper my ability to climb, but I realized very early into it height is really kind of meaningless, as you're looking at the wall most of the time, and when you're looking down you don't have to think about it as you're totally clipped in. So, the 'fear of falling' that comes with being afraid of heights is more or less negated.

I had a ball! We went to an area known as the "Fall's Wall" which is the most amazing view of Bridal Veil and Ingram Falls you can possibly imagine. It's mostly 5.10+ and 5.10 is what did on my first climb. It was hard, but I did it.

I'M HOOKED.

So, I need to buy some gear. I bought my shoes (Five Ten) before we went out yesterday. I guess my biggest question is on belay devices...I'm leaning towards a Grigri, but I think part of that is because I'm a newbie and I'm really light, so I'm afraid of non-self locking devices should there really be an emergency.

Any thoughts?

 

[Pequenita]

I'm by no means an expert on this stuff; prolly more of a perpetual beginner that, for whatever reason, people trust to belay them. Anyway - after shoes, the next thing I would buy is a harness if you already haven't (it sounds like, though, if you are looking into belay devices that you've already got the harness...).

I've actually never used a grigri - they look scary to me and I feel like I'm going to get my fingers stuck in them - and have always used ATC belay devices, which are also multifunctional. I'm pretty light and haven't had a problem with the ATC. I don't think the type of device is what matters when you're light but rather making sure you are securely anchored to something on the ground, as the issue is more how much are you going to rise when the climber falls, not whether you'll forget to brake. That comes with more practice.

Congrats on the first climb!

 

[Telluride Ski Babe]

Thanks Pequenita,

I don't have a harness yet, but I am ordering it today...I'm getting an ArcTeryx. They're incredibly thin, light and comfortable. (I didn't even know ArcTeryx makes harnesses, but my friend who is an expert climber has one and can't sing it praises loud enough.)

Thanks for your thoughts on belay devices. I guess it's more that I feel like my arms get a little tired belaying, but that's likely more because I'm holding the rope with a lot more tension than I actually need to. The grigri was something I thought would give help me to release some of that tension. Practice will likely achieve the same thing, so I guess I'll stick with an ATC.

 

[tradygirl]

First, a disclaimer - these are my opinions only! You'll get a whole range of advice from every single climber. The key is find something comfortable and stick with it until you're super solid with whatever you choose!

Gri Gri's are great once you get to know them, especially for belaying on toprope! I just have a hard time trusting beginners using them if they're belaying a leader. Feeding rope can be cumbersome (and dangerous) if you don't have the method dialed. Since you have to release the cam to get the rope to feed, there is a chance that if the climber fell at that moment, the cam would be open and the rope wouldn't catch. Personally, I would stick to a std non-autolocking belay device until you REALLY have your belay skills honed. Since you said you are light, remember that the Gri Gri will actually pull you off the ground even more, since there's no room for a dynamic belay. Plus, the Gri Gris are just so damn heavy! You'll never want to use it for multi-pitch climbing. Single-pitch climbing only - I think of the Gri Gri as a "quiver" belay device! :D

That being said, my favorites are the ATC (I always feel comfortable with this one), and the Reverso (has the capability of auto-lock mode, which is nice for multipitch climbing).

Speaking of auto-lock, I personally avoid auto-locking carabiners as well. I feel that it's worth taking the time to learn on simple, stable equipment so you understand how climbing systems work before moving to any sort of auto-anything. Go screwgate. I love the Petzl William for belaying.

Next, get at least one daisy chain, 2 or 3 small locking biners (I prefer the ones without a notched gate - I love the BD Positron), and a handful of slings of various sizes. Spectra is the lightest and strongest, but nylon slings work great as well, and they're cheaper. With this gear, you can build a solid anchor, clean sport anchors, otherwise being a contributing climbing partner and not "that one friend" who always uses your partner's gear!

A rope is a good thing to have of your own too. But that's a whole other discussion.

 

[Kimmyt]

Your gear will depend on what you plan on doing.

So... toproping (for now), sport, trad single pitch or trad multipitch?

If you're just looking for advice on a belay device, I'll give you this.

I don't trust people who learn to belay on a gri-gri. It fosters bad habits. In the right (well-trained) hands it can be a handy tool. However, most people use it as a crutch and don't learn to properly belay. Just because you are light, does not mean an ATC won't work for you. If you're concerned, go with the ATC-XP, this adds a bit of friction to the system and can help ensure a solid catch.

As a lightweight, your concerns should not be about being able to catch well because belaying is an act of physics, and friction has little to do with the weight of the belayer, but rather proper belaying technique, however being able to control your upward flight during the catching process is what you should be concerned about. To control this, if you're belaying someone much heavier, you can take care to anchor yourself (not too tightly) at the base of the climb so that you limit the amount of airtime you get during a catch. A soft catch is a good thing, sometimes, but not always.

Personally, I weigh 125 lbs. I have, in the past, belayed people up to 100 pounds heavier than me. In a toprope situation, I don't need an anchor to catch someone, but if it makes you more comfortable, then go for it. In a lead situation, it can be helpful, depending on the terrain.

K.

 

[Gloria]

Another vote for the air traffic controller. The only benefit the Griggrig will have in relation to your lightness is if you are belaying someone 3 times your weight. For instance my daughter 60 lbs can belay my DH 160 lbs with one but we have found she does just fine with the ATC as well if we anchor her from below as well.

 

[astridhj]

I also agree with going for the ATC. Personally I don't really trust people belaying with a grigri. It's good for you to learn how to climb with the simple equipments. And the most important thing is practice like it is regarding everything else.

 

[Kimmyt]

bumping this cause it's climbing season again!! Telluride Ski Babe- are you still climbing? How goes it?

 

[Telluride Ski Babe]

bumping this cause it's climbing season again!! Telluride Ski Babe- are you still climbing? How goes it?

Well, right after my first climb I broke three bones in my left foot, so that pretty much put the brakes on my climbing career for a while. Then it was ski season, so now that ski season is winding down I know I'll be going out to Paradox Valley with my climbing friends! Can't wait!

 

[Scout]

I'm new to the forum and glad to see so many ski/climbers! My F and I do sport, bouldering, and trad.

And to beat a dead horse, I agree, learn on the ATC or the BRD and then when you're ready, take some lessons on the gri gri. I spent 2 years on the ATC/BRD before going to the grigri. Now, I'm obsessed with the gri gri. I belay people double my weight most of the time and get taken to the first clip fairly frequently, so fun!

How did you break three bones on top rope? Did you swing into something? Hope everything healed ok!