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Meribel Honeymoon

marymack

Ski Diva Extraordinaire
Meribel Honeymoon

Why Meribel/background:
My husband and I just returned from a week in Meribel, France to celebrate our honeymoon. We had a wonderful time! We got married in September, but knew that we wanted to ski for our honeymoon, so with me being a teacher, February vacation was the time to do it.
When we started planning our trip over the summer, we had just bought our house and were in the middle of planning the wedding, so we decided to use Scout Ski (https://scoutski.com/) to help do some of the leg work for us. Our travel agent Sarah was wonderful. While we might have been able to do the trip a bit cheaper had we booked things ourself, she really went above and beyond to research for us and listen to what we wanted. She even tracked down a rental shop that had Telemark Skis for my husband, even though it wasn’t one that she worked with.
When we first contacted Scoutski I told her a bit about ourselves and what we were looking for and she generated a short list of ski areas that we might like...well that quickly went out the window when the next day Vail announced they were buying Peak resorts and suddenly as New Englander’s it made a LOT of sense to buy an Epic pass. Since you get 7 days at Les 3 Vallees on the full Epic pass, we were sold.



Meribel/our hotel :

Over the course of the week we skied around a good portion of Les 3 Vallees and we both agreed that Meribel was the prettiest base area and was the right pick for us given it was our honeymoon (so romantic!) and it is pretty centrally located. The center of Meribel seemed to be made up of 2 streets that had a bakery, grocery store and plenty of ski shops for rentals. Not a huge variety of restaurants, but some fast/cheap options like take away pizza, right up to fancy restaurants. I think if we were to go back again, we might choose Meribel Monteratt though, which is a little higher up in elevation so better snow and easier access to the rest of the resort. We always seemed to end up there at the end of the day and needed to ski back down to Meribel center anyway.

We stayed in Hotel L’Eterlou which was just a quick walk to the snow. Our room was small but it was fine for the two of us. The hotel had a pool, sauna and ski lockers, plus 2 onsite restaurants. We went with the half-board option which seemed like a splurge when we were booking it, but it was so convenient and in the end probably cheaper than eating out around town all week. Plus it was a peak week, so it would have been a hassle to need to make reservations for all our dinners. The hotel had La Grange, where our breakfast and dinner were served each day. Each night we were given 2 options each for a starter, entree and dessert. You could also swap out your dinner for a credit to La Kousina or for lunch up on the mountain. Eating out all week did get a little heavy (and expensive) for our taste. If it were not “our honeymoon” I think we would just rent an apartment and cook ourselves, but it sure was delicious sampling all the French food!


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It was a busy holiday week! This was the scene each morning as the ski school groups were gathering, luckily once everyone was on their way it seemed a lot less crowded.



Monday:
After picking up our skis at a small shop in Meribel Center (Mottaret Sports la Varappe https://www.mottaretsports.com/), we headed to the slopes. Our first day we really just wanted to get a feel for the resort. Having never skied in Europe, I was a little cautious in figuring out what adding a Red trail to the mix meant in terms of terrain difficulty. Plus, I was on new wider skis, the Blizzard Black Pearl 88 in 165cm. Yeah….I get it now...they were pretty awesome! Andy skid the Blizzard Brahmas and enjoyed them as well. I quickly decided that I think (at least at the 3 Valleys, of course terrain rating is always relative), that Reds were the ideal cruising trails. Blues and greens both seemed quite flat. That first day we skied Meribel and Meribel Mottaret. It was overcast and the lighting was pretty flat. We mostly stuck to the same area and lapped a few chairs rather than lots of traversing. We mostly stuck to the trails, although we did venture off piste a little, particularly when I saw a traverse heading off trail on the right of the Cote Brune lift. We discovered an untracked bowl! Of course given the lighting, I gave myself quite a fright dropping in and not finding the snow right away, but we would return here several times over the course of the week and it was our favorite spot on the mountain. We were shocked how many seemed to traverse right by it. In better lighting it was a pretty moderate pitch (though still steep in comparison to most of the on piste) and seemed to always have great snow. We had our first on mountain, outdoor restaurant lunch at Le Plan des Mains. It felt so funny to have such a sit down meal in the middle of the ski day. We even realized (sadly after we were done) that there was a boot dryer with slippers to wear during lunch! After lunch we went up to the summit of Mont Vallon. The trail down was a little tricky as the lighting had gotten very flat and there were lots of people struggling all around us. By the time we were down, it was late afternoon and it had started to drizzle heavily so we called it a day and skied back to our hotel. We enjoyed warming up in the sauna and then a hearty meal in La Grange.

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Monday visibility wasn’t ideal, it also started raining in the afternoon.

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French Onion soup at a mid-mountain restaurant.

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Our view from our dinner table each night.
 

marymack

Ski Diva Extraordinaire
Tuesday we awoke to Christal clear skies and a bit of fresh snow!! It felt like a dream. The mountain looked TOTALLY different because now you could see miles and miles of mountains in the distance. The scenery was spectacular. Our goal for the day was to ski to “the Summit of the 3 Valleys”. Starting right when lifts opened at 9, aside from one obligatory fast cruiser on the fresh snow, we worked our way from Meribel -> Meribel Mottaret-> Val Thorens-> Orelle-> the summit. We arrived at 12:40. While much of the day was spent on traverses and crossing trails, the scenery that day was just so spectacular, it felt more like sightseeing than skiing. We took LOTS of pictures. Andy convinced me to try an off-piste run below the chairlift on the way down from the summit...it was a little steeper than we realized...oops! But we headed back to Val Thorens and had lunch out on the snow from “Snow Wok”which sells stir fries out of a little store front in take out containers. By the time we made it back to Meribel it was 3:30 and we called it a day. Dinner that night was Raclette in La Kousina.





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Sycro-skiing success!
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Wednesday we woke up to fog and flat lighting. Our goal was to check out Courchevel for the day. The morning was ok, we were able to ski around a good bit but some of the trails were a little scrapy and the lighting got worse as the day went on. We just kept working further and further down in the valley in hopes of finding better lighting. We even ended up down by the ski jumps which were cool to check out. For lunch we ended up at a Mall? In the middle of the mountain. It was related to the Olympics back in the day. We found a great bakery with all kinds of Panini sandwiches ready to go. We could tell that this was a hidden gem by the number of ski instructors sitting around and local race kids. It was perfect. After our lunch, conditions still hadn’t improved much so we worked our way back over to Meribel and called it a day around 2:00. We had picked up some local bread, cheese and sausage and a bottle of wine so we enjoyed sitting on our deck and people watching before a quick dip in the hot tub and then dinner in La Grange (which we were almost too full to eat).


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marymack

Ski Diva Extraordinaire
Thursday was back to Sunny Skies and was the day that we had signed up for First tracks! We first took a bus up to Meribel Montarett and then hopped on the Pas Du Lac lift at 8:10am. We arrived at Les Pierre Plates for a breakfast of croissants and other breads with a variety of spreads. At 9am we were set free to ski. We enjoyed a nice long empty run down the red Marcassin all the way back to the base of Meribel Mottaret and then up again. We had lunch scheduled back at Les Pierre Plates for 1pm so didn’t stray too far from that area. Lots of good off piste this day. Fun bumps and the weather was beautiful. We knew that a bucket list item was to check out Le Folie Douce, so we headed there around 4pm. It was quite the snow. Everyone standing on tables, champagne being sprayed from the stage, music, dancing, it was a fun hour. At the end of the show at 5pm, we headed out to the snow to watch the carnage as people attempted to ski back down the mountain. By the time we got back to our hotel we realized we had had ski boots on for nearly 12 hours! We were happy to go relax in the pool and then since we had used our “dinner” for lunch, we headed out into Meribel to find a place for dinner. We agreed on La Galette. After having such a heavy lunch, La Galette was the perfect spot for a lighter meal.




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Yes, that is a paraglider flying over Le Folie Douce!

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Friday we still hadn’t skied Les Menuires so that was where we headed first. Lots of good runs but by the afternoon we were both feeling a little tired so we headed back to Meribel for the last thing on our checklist: Sledging! Andy had been skeptical after watching an underwhelming youtube video, but as it was only 12 euro a person I encouraged him to give it a shot. WELL, this was no kiddie ride that’s for sure! It was a really fun way to finish off the week. That night after a little souvenir shopping downtown, we had a delicious Fondue at La Kousina.


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marymack

Ski Diva Extraordinaire
Saturday morning after a quick breakfast we met our shuttle down by the bus stop for the ride back to Geneva. We watched the line of cars heading towards the ski areas and were glad that we had opted for the early morning shuttle rather than waiting for the afternoon, when traffic surely would have been much worse leaving the resort. We arrived in Geneva and checked into our hotel around 12:30. We were handed a free transportation card, dropped our bags in our room and headed out with only a rough idea of what we wanted to do: have lunch, enjoy some time in a park, see the city from the top of the cathedral and see the water jet. It was truly a wonderful afternoon. We quickly figured out the transit system and had fun riding the water taxi across the lake. We had lunch at a grocery store food court, it was delicious (and fast!), and dinner was at a small Lebanese restaurant that we stumbled on while on our way home.


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Bus ride to Geneva, caught this while driving through town.

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The white spire in the background is the water jet.

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Final thoughts/Observations:

-The lift system was downright impressive! They have certainly kept up with their investments in lifts. Every lift was either a high speed detachable quad (or 6 person bubble) or a gondola. We rode very few maybe 1? Fix grip lifts. It seemed very impressive that they ALL seemed to be working and even in what were clearly some peak days, we hardly ever waited longer than 10 minutes to get on a lift. Most of the time it was under 3 minutes. It was also different to ski a place where many lifts only accessed 1 or 2 trails (of course not counting the off piste), this also seemed to really spread out the crowds.

-Of course getting on the lift was a different experience… Everyone in one corral kind of shuffling and jostling to get to the front. It was a wonder that we only managed to get separated once (and it was totally my fault for miscounting and getting on the chair when Andy’s lane still had a person in front of him!) While it did seem to work out most of the time, it was frustrating to see how many chairs were left unfilled as there was no one directing people to match up.


-The 3 valleys certainly caters to families quite well, we had SO much fun trying out the numerous ski cross trails with banked turns and playing in the “family parks” with ski in igloos, funny characters to ski around and loop-de-loop funnels that end with you going through a tunnel! They also do a good job setting up various photo op areas with big signs for where to take photos. Certain lifts would even take your picture and then there is a booth at the end to email the photo to yourself!


-Navigating around the mountain took a little while to figure out. Eventually we realized that the signs indicated the chairlift that you were headed towards, with a color swatch on the side to indicate the difficulty of the trail and the trail name in small writing in the corner. Andy pointed out to me a couple days into our trip that the stakes that they used to mark the edge of the trail were also color coded to the trail difficulty. Also very useful, and something you certainly don’t see at Eastern US ski areas: signs along the trail that remind you what trail you are on!


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Also, the “amazing ride” was a zipline from the VERY summit of the ski area...insane! It wasn’t running that day so we weren’t able to see anyone go for it.
 

skibum4ever

Angel Diva
Thanks for sharing your narration and gorgeous photos.

A nice break from reading about the coronavirus.

Congratulations and best wishes for your life ahead.
 

newboots

Angel Diva
Yes, what amazing scenery and skiing! Congratulations on the very best sort of honeymoon and your marriage!
 

ski diva

Administrator
Staff member
Congratulations! And what a great honeymoon! Thanks for posting such a thorough trip report. It's nice to have such a lovely diversion during a very difficult time.
 

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