Bindings???

[artistinsuburbia]

Educate me. I'm either getting the Blizzard Black Pearls, the Volkl Kenjas or the Temptation 88's. But these are all sold flat. So. Now what? I know nothing about bindings.

 

[snow addict]

Z10, Z12, Squires, anything really. Lot of choice around. Just make sure your DIN settings fall inside the range. Not in the middle, but just inside.

 

[MaineSkiLady]

This is a really good binding at a great price:
https://www.evo.com/outlet/alpine-ski-bindings/atomic-ffg-10-2015.aspx#image=89157/391915/clone.jpg
I have had several pairs - they perform flawlessly and are lightweight. They are essentially Salomon Z10 with Atomic name/graphics.
$105. 90 and 100 brake choices.

 

[surfsnowgirl]

I just went through this when I had to buy bindings for my 80 underfoot magnums. Someone on here just explained to me that the general rule of thumb is just make sure the brake width is 10mm over the waist width of the skis you want so that there is proper overhang on either side. i.e. My Kenjas are 87 underfoot so I have 97mm Attack 13 bindings on there. My magnums are 80 underfoot so I want a 90 mm brake. If you look at brakes and click on the sizes they come in you'll see them in mm so that makes it easier.

 

[MaineSkiLady]

...the general rule of thumb is just make sure the brake width is 10mm over the waist width of the skis you want so that there is proper overhang on either side.

Sorry, but no, this isn't the case at all. You can get a lot closer to the ski width than 10mm. In fact, 10 is quite a lot. I've put 90 brakes on 88 wide skis without issue. Shop tech can slightly (not much, maybe 2mm) bend out brake arms as well.

 

[Jilly]

Besides DIN the size of brake will be the important item. I have a Rossi Axial on my 88's. It came as part of the package from Rossi....pro deal.

 

[surfsnowgirl]

Sorry, but no, this isn't the case at all. You can get a lot closer to the ski width than 10mm. In fact, 10 is quite a lot. I've put 90 brakes on 88 wide skis without issue. Shop tech can slightly (not much, maybe 2mm) bend out brake arms as well.

Ok well that's what someone on here told me and someone on epic said this as well. Of course its not a hard and fast rule and you can get closer to the number and the brake arms can be bent out, etc. However, I think its a good general rule to go by if you know nothing about bindings/brakes and want to make your selection easier and not have to worry about bending out brake arms or replacing brakes.

I am a fan of Attack 13 bindings and I'd put them on any of the skis mentioned and those are less than 10mm with the "widest" being the Kenjas at 90 underfoot so that still leaves 7mm.

 

[MaineSkiLady]

Additionally, brakes are replaceable, such that if someone were to find a good binding deal with the wrong size brake, it could be worthwhile to simply get a different width brake. Been there.

 

[snow addict]

I think 10 mm wider than the ski width is the maximum recommended width for brakes. You don't really want them sticking out too wide.

 

[contesstant]

I have never heard of having brakes being 10mm wider, either. Quite the opposite, in fact. Mine are typically 2mm wider. 98mm skis have 100mm brakes, 88 mm skis have 90mm brakes, 95 mm skis have 97mm brakes, 105mm skis I think have 110mm brakes. A look at system bindings will tell you all you need to know, it seems. The system bindings on our skis are all very flush with the side of the ski.

 

[MaineSkiLady]

I think 10 mm wider than the ski width is the maximum recommended width for brakes. You don't really want them sticking out too wide.

^^ This. For any ski less than a very wide, surfy powder board, 5mm over is pushing it - because in a highly angulated carve situation, a 5mm over brake CAN hook up. Which is not a nice event...

 

[marzNC]

Are these the characteristics of bindings that can differ?

1) brake width, which can be easily changed
2) DIN range, for example 5-15 not good if someone needs a DIN of 4
3) weight, for instance, demo bindings tend to be heavier
4) material/construction

Guess what I'm thinking about for #4 is that I've read that some bindings are more durable because there is more metal and less plastic. Probably not a big deal for most people.

The first two pairs of skis I bought in the last decade had system bindings partially because I didn't want to think about one more piece of gear. That's why for me the fact that my new Absolut Joys came with bindings was a plus.

 

[MaineSkiLady]

Without getting into the deep engineering of them (which I scarcely understand), there are also differences in the release mechanisms between brands and how they deploy. There are differences in elasticity, based largely on spring tension - which is what keeps the binding on until it absolutely needs to let go. (Anyone who has had a premature binding release will surely attest to this being an advantage.) A binding rated up to DIN 14 is going to have an entirely different spring than one that’s rated up to DIN 10, for example. There are differences in the elasticity characteristics of the toe piece (where is where many of the brands differ in philosophy and construction).

Lots and lots of controversy in recent years regarding Knee Binding and its claims/efficacy.

Materials, check - more and more bindings, though, have a significant percentage of plastic housing components. For the average recreational, non-heavyweight skier, this is likely a non-issue. Where plastic does begin to seriously matter is with time and age, given plastic’s proclivity to becoming brittle. This is a factor (among several) in the whole indemnifying process.

Once upon a time, a long time ago, we used to actually mount our own bindings, back in the days of add-on AFD’s (wow, dating myself here), and DH was pretty savvy about all this. Excuse the degree of vagueness of above, my engineering knowledge is purely via osmosis.

 

[SheSki]

I'll add one more factor to MarzNC's list -
5) moveable: you may want to consider demo bindings or something like the Marker Schizo if you want to be able to play a little with center of the boot placement on the ski, or if you share the skis with someone.
If you just need a good, normal binding I like the solomon z10 MaineSkiLady linked.

 

[DeweySki]

Z10, Z12, Squires, anything really. Lot of choice around. Just make sure your DIN settings fall inside the range. Not in the middle, but just inside.

This is the exact list I was going to type. I have the Z12s on a pair of Armadas and love them. My bestie has the Temptation 88s and I believe she has the Rossi Axium bindings on them.

 

[marzNC]

Without getting into the deep engineering of them (which I scarcely understand), there are also differences in the release mechanisms between brands and how they deploy. There are differences in elasticity, based largely on spring tension - which is what keeps the binding on until it absolutely needs to let go. (Anyone who has had a premature binding release will surely attest to this being an advantage.) A binding rated up to DIN 14 is going to have an entirely different spring than one that’s rated up to DIN 10, for example. There are differences in the elasticity characteristics of the toe piece (where is where many of the brands differ in philosophy and construction).

Lots and lots of controversy in recent years regarding Knee Binding and its claims/efficacy.

Materials, check - more and more bindings, though, have a significant percentage of plastic housing components. For the average recreational, non-heavyweight skier, this is likely a non-issue. Where plastic does begin to seriously matter is with time and age, given plastic’s proclivity to becoming brittle. This is a factor (among several) in the whole indemnifying process.

Once upon a time, a long time ago, we used to actually mount our own bindings, back in the days of add-on AFD’s (wow, dating myself here), and DH was pretty savvy about all this. Excuse the degree of vagueness of above, my engineering knowledge is purely via osmosis.

That's the perfect level of "engineering" detail for me.

My take on bindings at this point is that barring a lot of negative comments, any binding that is a reasonable price, covers the correct DIN range, and gets set up with the correct brakes, would work fine for a resort skier. I do remember people talking about issues with the Marker Squire a few years ago. I had issues getting in and out of those on some demo skis. But like all gear, best not to rely solely on info from 2-3 years ago when buying a current model of anything.

 

[marzNC]

I watched a local friend mount bindings on skis he bought for his tween daughter. He enjoys working on skis in any way. Has a fall tuning day in his driveway next to the garage and any friends can show up with their skis. Watched while he was marking, checking, checking again, eventually drilling, being very careful not to go too deep.

Interesting to see the process. I'm perfectly happy paying a shop to do that task.

 

[Jilly]

I have the Axium on one pair and the Axial on the 88's and Hero's. I'm not excited about the Axial, but it works.

Edit: the Axium is on the Hero's...system binding. the Axial's are on the 88's and my old Attraxion 12's.

 

[artistinsuburbia]

Look at ya'll getting your geek on. This is why I lOVE this group. Ask and you shall receive. thanks ladies!

I know nothing about my bindings other than insert toe here, click down there. done. Sad. I know. But DH is the proverbial ski tuning guru in his garage like @marzNC 's friend above. Therefore I take them to the garage and magic happens while I sleep. So other than they are super heavy because they are demo bindings, I know nothing. Loving the list above, and have got #3 covered...no demo bindings. Does the plastic/metal thing really come into play for a resort skier? And what is the pro/con on the Knee bindings? Was actually thinking of those, since the knee injury thing is a good scare tactic for those of us over 45.

 

[marzNC]

I'll add one more factor to MarzNC's list -
5) moveable: you may want to consider demo bindings or something like the Marker Schizo if you want to be able to play a little with center of the boot placement on the ski, or if you share the skis with someone.
If you just need a good, normal binding I like the solomon z10 MaineSkiLady linked.

Thanks for the addition.

Here's an updated list of binding characteristics. Realized that my focus is on "resort skiers" not planning on back country skiing. BC gear is another topic completely. So put material/construction at the bottom after adding the idea of being able to adjust for different BSLs (boot sole length).

1) brake width - can be easily changed
2) DIN range - for example 5-15 not good if someone needs a DIN of 4
3) weight - for instance, demo bindings tend to be heavier
4) boot length adjustability - demo bindings can fit a range of boot sizes without re-drilling
5) material/construction - does vary but not usually a factor for resort skiers

Bindings with separate toe and heel pieces that are attached with screws directly into the skis can be adjusted a bit. Read elsewhere that typically that means 10-20mm, or one boot size up or down. That's why it can be an advantage to buy "starter" skis with demo bindings if you are likely to want to sell them relatively soon. It's possible to re-drill to move bindings but not recommended to do more than two or three times. I assume it also depends on where the new holes need to be placed.