From our Ski Diva member @Analisa 's blog, FemiGnarly. Reprinted here with her permission. (To pose questions or make comments related to this post, go here.)
First, let’s get on the same page about what your active layers are supposed to do because that’s where a lot of confusion starts:
Why do brands make “heavyweight” or “expedition weight” base layers?
Now that we’ve covered fabric weight, the next decision is the fabric content and the classic wool vs. synthetic trade off discussion. This conversation usually goes like this: one person solicits base layer recommendations. Another person responds with “TRY WOOL. WOOL IS THE BEST. IF IT’S NOT A $120 WOOL SET, THEN IT’S TRASH.” And I get how this happens. Most people start with budget polyester pieces because it’s the only option for entry-price-point pieces. When they want to upgrade, wool typically catches their eye because wool occupies most of the top price tiers. But that’s not necessarily a reflection of quality. So let’s dive in to both fabrics:
Wool
Wool production starts with a breed of “Merino” sheep from a handful of countries, but Australia and New Zealand are most known for their wool supply. The supply and demand curves for wool are heavily influenced by drought conditions in the Oceanic region. Sheep are sheared, creating staples (little hairs or snippets that get spun together into thread). The staples are graded for their diameter. “Merino” can cover anything from 25 microns down to 11 microns. The smaller the diameter, the softer and less itchy the wool feels. Here’s a snapshot of the brands that disclose the gauge of their merino:
Once wool is sheared and graded, it gets sent to processing. Most wool processing is in China, which also adds to the cost given the tariff increases from the trade wars in 2018. All wool is cleaned to remove the greasy lanolin from wool, as well as any dirt and impurities. Wool goes through several hot water tanks, alternating between detergents (either a solvent or alkali solution) and rinsing tanks. It’s important to get wool extra clean, otherwise it won’t dye evenly. Different brands use different methods (same for dying processes) that can impact the handfeel of the garment.
Once clean, the staples are spun into threads. Some brands combine wool with other fibers, like a nylon core. This helps with durability and makes it possible for wool pieces to hold up well when washed with normal laundry. Blended fibers also helps brands make thinner layers than they could with wool alone.
A lot of people gravitate towards wool for ski season, since it’s one of few materials that provides warmth when wet, since wool generates heat as it dries. Skiing is a “start & stop” sport where you generate a lot of heat (and sometimes nervous sweat) on the downhill, and then barely move while you’re in lift lines, and wool does an exceptional job regulating those large temperature variations. Wool also is an inhospitable environment for the bacteria that emits body odor. In simpler terms, it’s less likely to stink.
But since wool is a natural, staple fiber, it’s less durable, and some blends shrink easily. Check the care labels to see if they need to be washed and dried differently than your usual laundry. The FTC labeling requirements require that care directions are more “liberal” (aka they give the customers the most options for reasonable care over 1 method that maximizes the life of the garment), so I put all my wool pieces on delicate or handwash them, regardless of the care instructions. I also only use Woolite since it’s gentler on delicate materials compared to everyday enzyme detergents.
Wool also doesn’t wick as well or dry as fast as synthetics, so if you get hot and stay hot, synthetics will likely be a better fit. I also prefer them from spring to fall when temps are warmer.
Wool is a great fiber, but a lot of the expense isn’t attributed to premium performance. Wool has a complex supply chain that has a lot of dependencies. You can’t ramp production up or down when it comes to living animals, and wool only makes up 3% of the global textile market, so plants that process, spin, and knit or weave wool are relatively niche. Part of the expense goes to feeding and caring for animals, as well as a supply chain that spans 3 continents to get here to North America.
Base Layer 101
It’s base layer season, and I’ve seen a lot of questions about brand and fabric recommendations. Most answers differentiate wool and synthetic as if that’s the only point of differentiation in the market. There are lots more ways to add value and comfort to a garment and offer something different to the customer.First, let’s get on the same page about what your active layers are supposed to do because that’s where a lot of confusion starts:
- Base layer: wick sweat and dry quickly
- Insulating layer: trap and hold air to be warmed by your body heat.
- Waterproof layer: keep snow and rain off you, let water vapor escape from the inside of the jacket through the membrane
Why do brands make “heavyweight” or “expedition weight” base layers?
- Inactive base layers don’t get sweaty and don’t need to wick and dry. If you wear a base layer hunting and fishing, around the house, or out walking the dog, dry time isn’t a consideration. Likewise, if you’re snow camping, you can change out of your sweaty layer once you’ve made it to your campsite and slip into something thick, warm, and dry for around camp or to wear to bed.
- Sometimes it’s necessary to ask your layers to do double duty. I have the Dakine Callahan Fleece base layer top for things like mountain biking or skimo races where it’s really annoying to adjust layers during quick and frequent transitions between uphill and down. If the fabric is a more expensive, highly engineered textile, it can provide adequate performance when weight, space, and time are of utmost importance.
- Customer confusion generates demand. In my own experience, I’ve seen that some brands are more motivated to capture a sale, even if it doesn’t solve a problem for their consumer. Most heavyweight base layer manufacturers have a hunt & fish business, or a “cold weather lifestyle” side of their brand (like LL Bean or Lands End). But there are also some active brands going after a cash grab.
Now that we’ve covered fabric weight, the next decision is the fabric content and the classic wool vs. synthetic trade off discussion. This conversation usually goes like this: one person solicits base layer recommendations. Another person responds with “TRY WOOL. WOOL IS THE BEST. IF IT’S NOT A $120 WOOL SET, THEN IT’S TRASH.” And I get how this happens. Most people start with budget polyester pieces because it’s the only option for entry-price-point pieces. When they want to upgrade, wool typically catches their eye because wool occupies most of the top price tiers. But that’s not necessarily a reflection of quality. So let’s dive in to both fabrics:
Wool
Wool production starts with a breed of “Merino” sheep from a handful of countries, but Australia and New Zealand are most known for their wool supply. The supply and demand curves for wool are heavily influenced by drought conditions in the Oceanic region. Sheep are sheared, creating staples (little hairs or snippets that get spun together into thread). The staples are graded for their diameter. “Merino” can cover anything from 25 microns down to 11 microns. The smaller the diameter, the softer and less itchy the wool feels. Here’s a snapshot of the brands that disclose the gauge of their merino:
- WoolX: 17.5 – 18.5
- Ortovox: 18 – 19
- Mons Royale: 20.5, with a few styles at 18.5
- Kari Traa: 19.5
- Patagonia: 18.5
- Ibex: 18.5 – 19.5
- Norrona: 17.5
- Meriwool: 18.5
- Minus33: 18.5
- Terramar: 18.5
- Voormi: 21.5
Once wool is sheared and graded, it gets sent to processing. Most wool processing is in China, which also adds to the cost given the tariff increases from the trade wars in 2018. All wool is cleaned to remove the greasy lanolin from wool, as well as any dirt and impurities. Wool goes through several hot water tanks, alternating between detergents (either a solvent or alkali solution) and rinsing tanks. It’s important to get wool extra clean, otherwise it won’t dye evenly. Different brands use different methods (same for dying processes) that can impact the handfeel of the garment.
Once clean, the staples are spun into threads. Some brands combine wool with other fibers, like a nylon core. This helps with durability and makes it possible for wool pieces to hold up well when washed with normal laundry. Blended fibers also helps brands make thinner layers than they could with wool alone.
A lot of people gravitate towards wool for ski season, since it’s one of few materials that provides warmth when wet, since wool generates heat as it dries. Skiing is a “start & stop” sport where you generate a lot of heat (and sometimes nervous sweat) on the downhill, and then barely move while you’re in lift lines, and wool does an exceptional job regulating those large temperature variations. Wool also is an inhospitable environment for the bacteria that emits body odor. In simpler terms, it’s less likely to stink.
But since wool is a natural, staple fiber, it’s less durable, and some blends shrink easily. Check the care labels to see if they need to be washed and dried differently than your usual laundry. The FTC labeling requirements require that care directions are more “liberal” (aka they give the customers the most options for reasonable care over 1 method that maximizes the life of the garment), so I put all my wool pieces on delicate or handwash them, regardless of the care instructions. I also only use Woolite since it’s gentler on delicate materials compared to everyday enzyme detergents.
Wool also doesn’t wick as well or dry as fast as synthetics, so if you get hot and stay hot, synthetics will likely be a better fit. I also prefer them from spring to fall when temps are warmer.
Wool is a great fiber, but a lot of the expense isn’t attributed to premium performance. Wool has a complex supply chain that has a lot of dependencies. You can’t ramp production up or down when it comes to living animals, and wool only makes up 3% of the global textile market, so plants that process, spin, and knit or weave wool are relatively niche. Part of the expense goes to feeding and caring for animals, as well as a supply chain that spans 3 continents to get here to North America.
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