1 degree side bevel?

[liquidfeet]

Last week I raced on newly sharpened skis. My friend got them done, and had a 1 degree side bevel put on. I raced well.

But I thought that a 3 degree side bevel was recommended for ice, and somewhat icy it was. Always my side bevel has been 2, and I thought I probably needed 3 but didn't do it because I don't ski on race skis and I only have one pair of usable skis.

So here's my question: did I do well because simply they were sharp? Or did I do well because there's something good about a 1 degree side bevel that I don't know about?

 

[skigirl]

I find that the degree side bevel is a personal thing just like your skis, everyone likes something different. I love my 1 degree bevel. It is the only bevel I will ski on. You may have just found the degree that works best with your skiing style. Yes I am a, "good eastern hard pack" skier!!

 

[volklgirl]

A 1 degree side bevel??? Wow.

Most skis now come factory tuned to 1 degree base bevel and 2 degree side bevel (including Volkls). We tune often enough that edge durability isn't really an issue for us, so even my 'I'd never race on these in a million years' skis get re-tuned to a 3 degree side bevel for extra purchase in those oh-too-frequent icy patches.

I'm thinking you really liked them just because they were actually really sharp. If you're racing on those skis, JMHO, you should be on 2 degree minimum, and keep them sharpened regularly.

Note, this is about side (edge) bevel only, not base bevel!!

 

[liquidfeet]

VolklGirl,

That's what I thought. Needed reassurance. So tonite I am prepared to use my ADJUSTABLE file holder and change that there 1 degree SIDE bevel to 2 degrees. I will put majic marker on it, put on my glasses, turn the lights up, use 50/50 solution of denatured alcohol (oh no! don't have any!!) and water on the file that came with the adjustable file holder, and go to it, tip to tail. But I'm worried worried worried.

I don't want to mess these things up. These are someone else's skis!

What problems might I run into, that I should worry about and be careful of?

 

[volklgirl]

Sounds like a plan!

Liquidfeet;

Sounds like you've got it covered. Just remember many, many passes with very light pressure is always better than a few passes while cranking on the file. Go only 'til the marker is all gone.

Oh, and make sure you gummi your final edge to get rid of the burr. If you can't squeeze the edges and run your fingers down the ski without cutting yourself, you've got burrs! Some people gummi at a 45 deg angle to the edge, but I just gummi both base and side edges, then feel for burrs.

Are you de-tuning tip and tail??

 

[Native Vail Gal]

Ok....now I'm feeling stupid! What the heck is a bevel?

 

[volklgirl]

Ok....now I'm feeling stupid! What the heck is a bevel?

Not stupid.....just uninformed! :D

The edges on your skis are not flat to the base or the sidewall. Instead, they are slightly angled (beveled). A flat-to-the-ski (0 degree) base bevel will engage a turn instantly and will feel "twitchy". Many Slalom and some GS racers will use a .5 degree base bevel for quick response with less twitchiness. Most recreational skiers and racers go with a 1 degree base bevel to allow the ski to be powered into and released from the turn with ease. Base bevels rarely go beyond 1 degree except for Super G or Downhill racers who want their skis to "swim" (wiggle without actually turning).

Most recreational skis come with a 2 degree side bevel to have better grip on ice without making the ski unforgiving. World Class racers often have side bevels of up to 9 degree because they need more grip on their water injected icy race courses.

The short version is: the more base bevel your ski has, the more forgiving the ski will be, the more side bevel it has, the more grip it will have.

Alpinord had a great drawing of bevels on Epic....I'll see if I can find it.

 

[Native Vail Gal]

Thank you Volklgirl! You have given me the Bevel Lesson of the day! I appreciate you taking the time to explain this! I'm gonna go look at my skis and see if I can figure out how many bevels! :o

 

[volklgirl]

This isn't Alpinord's pic, but I think it works....

see the bevels on the right hand side?

Also, check out the section on how to measure your base bevel here:

https://www.tognar.com/volkl_tips_waxing_tuning_skis_snowboards.html

 

[ski diva]

volklgirl, you never fail to impress!

 

[liquidfeet]

Are you de-tuning tip and tail??

I have a race on Wednesday night. I want a platinum! I'll settle for gold. I have a gummi. So tell me what to do about de-tuning.

1. Should I??? Why?

or

2. May I skip it? Why?

 

[volklgirl]

De-tuning is totally a personal preference thing.

Some recreational skiers round off the edges on the tips and tails (up to and sometimes beyond the contact point). The allows the skis to release from the turn easier, makes them gentler going into the turn, and allows them the skid more easily.

Racers and great carvers rarely de-tune anymore. The continuous sharp edge makes the skis carve into the turn faster, hang onto the turn longer and more aggressively, and make skidding more difficult. The agressive sidecuts of most modern "carving" and race skis are designed to be sharp from tip-to-tail.

FWIW: all our skis are sharp tip-to-tail, including our crud/pow skis. With proper stance and technique, they can all still be skidded easily.

 

[Cambridge Kate]

extreme bevel

I tune to a 1 degree base bevel and 3 degree side bevel. Lets me get those skis right up on edge on the hardpack without skidding out. And although I don't detune per se, I don't sharpen the tips and tails. I've been on skis that were sharpened to the ends and they were unpleasantly grabby. I can see where that might be desirable for racing though.

I resharpen and rewax every third day of use. I figure I need all the help I can get out there!

CK