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Northern Wisconsin: Granite Peak and Whitecap Mountains

Amie H

Angel Diva
Inspired by recent "Up North" ski reports from @Iwannaski and @shadoj , I left Thursday afternoon and drove from the NW burbs of Chicago to Wausau, WI (just under 4 hours.) Checked into my hotel, changed into my ski gear, and drove 5 minutes to Granite Peak. I've been there before. I was attracted by the $25+tax ticket for M-F night skiing. Only two lifts were open, but it was empty so I got a lot of runs in before my toes decided it was time to go in. I'd say an advanced skier might get bored here because the black runs are a short amount of steepness then transition into a flat runout. The run in this video, "Miracle," which starts that the top of the Cupid high speed quad chair, I enjoyed because the lighting was decent and the snow was good. It took me 1:34 seconds to get down it, if that gives you an indication of the length of runs. The big plus for skiing at Granite Peak is it's an "urban" resort - you have all the amenities of a small city right there. Downtown Wausau is charming. Plenty of dining and lodging options.

The next morning, I drove North on route 51 to Whitecap Mountains Resort. I was able to check in to my motel early, changed, and then arrived at the resort at 11:45, so I bought a half-day ticket for $50 plus a ticket for the next day.
I knew from a friend a bit about Whitecap: outdated facilities but great terrain and snow. The resort is in the Lake Superior "snow belt" and they got about a foot of fresh snow earlier in the week. One other huge plus is a distinct lack of crowds. When I drove in Saturday morning, I parked in the first row of the lot! I skied right on to every lift. Staff were friendly. The snow was PERFECT: dry, squeaky, super-forgiving, and plenty of it. I brought my older Rossignol Temptation 84s and though I used to not like them that much, they skied GREAT. Maybe, though, it wasn't the snow as much as I've just gotten to be a better skier with so many ski days this year...
Anyway, there are some clear pros and cons of this resort.
Cons:
- Lodging takes some effort to find (onsite resort lodge still in need of renovation, and is expensive)
- Chairs are older, all fixed grip, 2 with hard plastic seats, 1 with wooden slats (like a park bench!) NONE have safety bars (that may be a non-starter for some folks.) Not the slowest I've ever ridden, though.
- Not for newbies: NO magic carpet. Greens are mostly gentle, but run to get back to base is a tad steep for a true beginner, IMO.
- Long drive to get there. Can fly into Ironwood, MI but ground transportation limited/nonexistent. Only 2 hour drive from Duluth, though.
- Limited facilities at resort. Main lodge has indoor restrooms, otherwise on the mountain, there are porta-potties up top and at some of the lifts. (kind of a good idea, tbh.)
- Cannot wear backpacks on lifts - they are too shallow and no bars. Stow snacks/other stuff in pockets.
- Trails not well-marked. Really could use more signage. Although once I skied a few trails, I got oriented pretty quickly

Pros:
- THE SNOW IS AMAZING. Nice grooming on most trails, but some left ungroomed for those who like powder (see my video clip below!) Also loads of fresh powder in trees and just off the trails. Entire mountain is skied, not just frontside.
- Affordable lift tickets
- NO CROWDS
- Variety of terrain - great for snowboarding or skiing. Truly has challenging terrain for experts/adrenaline seekers (moguls on a cliff face, anyone?) but fun, long blues and greens, almost all meandering through the woods or otherwise twisting and turning at some point. The longest runs I've ever skied in the Midwest, outside of maybe Lutsen.
- The Wine Hut : a charming, cozy cabin that serves light snacks, hot beverages (hot mulled wine, hot cider, hot chocolate) and cold ones (full bar, pop.) Wood stove keeping it nice and toasty in there. Super-cute.
-On a clear day, you can see Lake Superior from the top of the lifts. Pretty views on the South side of the mountain too.
- Nice people, VERY unpretentious. Also, loads of people skiing on 1990's equipment. I spied so many pairs of skinny old planks and rear-entry boots, I wondered if the Divas would be shocked by it? Heck, Maybe next time, I'll take my old set up there for a few runs.

I will definitely plan a return, preferably with some friends so we can all go in on a rental home, because I wasn't wild about the safety of my motel (doorknob locks only) and just sitting alone in a tiny room (did have fridge & microwave, though so I made some tasty dinner.)

 

Iwannaski

Angel Diva
Granite peak is sooooo small compared to any large Western or Eastern resort… but it’s so fun! And big compared to everything else near us.

Your video at Whitecap made me giggle. And also made me want to go. Not too bad a drive for me.
Tempted to suggest a trip with the teenage boys next winter, because that would be HILARIOUS.

QQ for you… have you been to Lutsen? Would you go Whitecap or Lutsen? The driving delta for us is fairly short… @shadoj, would love your input too. We’re going to be done locally soon. Want to know where else we should go. :smile:
 

Amie H

Angel Diva
RE: GP, for $25 its a fun night out. I just don't get why people go all the way there from Chi or Mke, when the Dells-area skiing (Cascade, Devils Head ) is comparable, easier to get to, and slightly cheaper. On the plus side, GP does have a lovely lodge AND a longer season. And Wausau is a nice town to stay in. That Hampton Inn nearby has a nice hot tub. Lots of Apres options. [Speaking of Dells, have you tried Nordic Mountain near Wautoma for a day trip? It's a cute place. They have yurts! Crowds aren't bad even on weekends. Probably a 2 hour drive for you. ]

Lutsen is upscale, can get quite crowded, but offers stunning views of Lake Superior and big resort amenities, like a gondola. Late season, conditions can get sketchy. In fact, my trip there in 2019 was supposed to be 2 days skiing, but after 1st day, after dodging rocks and dirt and holes (it happens everywhere in Spring, not just there) I bailed on day 2 and hiked a nearby state park instead. It's very spread out (across 3 mountains). Your boys will probably love it because there is variety and a big resort vibe. I did not stay at the resort on my trip but I'd imagine renting a ski-in/out house/condo there would be fabulous. Compared to Grand Marais 20 min up the road, dining in Lutsen itself is more limited.

A Whitecap trip can be meh if your lodging isn't good (have conferred w friends on that), but it's also fantastic, if you like a rustic, woodsy kind of vibe? One friend & his family(adult kids) rent a huge house and have a great time up there annually, but I believe they cook all their meals in the house. There isn't much in the way of dining options, just typical up North bar/grill type joints in Iron Belt & Hurley. I didn't go all the way to Ironwood, MI to comment on dining there. The whole area has tons of snowmobiles who go up to ride the 77 Trail. It can get loud at night in town! Cell service is not good. Internet? What's that?

I think I'd need to know more about your family's expectation level to make a recommendation, if that makes any sense? If it's in the time-and-$ budget next season, maybe give it a try?

Or, we could organize a Diva trip up there next season...I volunteer to to the cooking!

Personally, I'm not sure I'd go alone again to Whitecap unless I stayed at the resort. I didn't feel secure in my motel. Those snowmobile groups gave me biker gang vibes! :bolt:
 

Amie H

Angel Diva
After re-watching that Whitecap video (taken on a Friday afternoon) did you see another person? I did not. That's a GIANT plus in my book. It's so open and uncrowded you can just let it RIP. It was exhilarating.
 

Iwannaski

Angel Diva
Thank you! We love granite because it’s super easy to get to, and I love that they cap their tickets. I’m bougie. We travel with half of another family, and we’re looking for different options that would make the trip more appealing to other parts of that family (i.e., the one non-skier) and our other friends who don’t ski. :smile: We’ll probably do a house in Wausau next time for that reason. But, we could also do a house in the UP or by Whitecap. if we’re not ski in/out, I wouldn’t even mind hitting a few places over a long weekend. That would be fun.

For me, I really like some of the food options in Wausau, and the Dells is, well, the Dells. Some great options, but also some really poor values. if I have the option to eat out and I do it, I want really good.

We’re doing just our family ski in/out at Lutsen this year, so I’ll have a better idea.

But also, if we do a diva meetup, I’m in. I will probably bring my friend who is a snowboarder… she is awesome.
 

Iwannaski

Angel Diva
ALthough after re-watching that Whitecap video (taken on a Friday afternoon) did you see another person? I did not. That's a GIANT plus in my book.
I was 100000000% thinking that.
 

Amie H

Angel Diva
Thank you! We love granite because it’s super easy to get to, and I love that they cap their tickets. I’m bougie. We travel with half of another family, and we’re looking for different options that would make the trip more appealing to other parts of that family (i.e., the one non-skier) and our other friends who don’t ski. :smile: We’ll probably do a house in Wausau next time for that reason. But, we could also do a house in the UP or by Whitecap. if we’re not ski in/out, I wouldn’t even mind hitting a few places over a long weekend. That would be fun.

For me, I really like some of the food options in Wausau, and the Dells is, well, the Dells. Some great options, but also some really poor values. if I have the option to eat out and I do it, I want really good.
Ah, totally TRUE. Terrible dining options in the Dells. Like, Culvers is the most reliable option there. I live so close to I-90 though so it's very convenient for me. BUT for the non-skiers, there is the outlet mall, Ho Chunk Casino, movie theaters, bowling, and tacky souvenir shops. (The Eddie Bauer outlet in the Dells is decent, IMO.)

But, speaking of bougie, for an adult super-upscale Wisconsin ski trip, ski Devil's Head and stay at Sundara Spa resort. $$$$ but it's sooooo luxurious and the food is awesome. (I'm not spa-going yet, though until Covid is better understood/less of a threat.)

If you have non-skiers in the group, the better play might be stay over by Bayfield, WI and drive to ski. I've not been, but as a Wisconsinite, I'm sure you know about it. (Near Apostle Islands.) They also have a little community ski hill (Mt Ashawabay.) Non skiers can hike, go to shops, etc.

Or Minoqua ( <1hr south on 51 from Whitecap) which is also a cute resort town, shops to visit, parks, dining options, etc. Also big casino near Minoqua (Lake of the Torches.)
 

shadoj

Angel Diva
After re-watching that Whitecap video (taken on a Friday afternoon) did you see another person? I did not. That's a GIANT plus in my book. It's so open and uncrowded you can just let it RIP. It was exhilarating.
Thanks @Amie H for the video and trip report! That snow looks so much fun, and your giggles made me giggle. I'd love to get a Diva group together to stay on-hill at one of the resorts near Ironwood!

I just arrived at Eagle Ridge (on-mountain lodging at Lutsen). Here for 3 days. Let me know if anyone wants pictures of anything specific :smile: Lutsen really is one of my favorite places. I've had good luck with the last week in February (midweek); usually more-pleasant temperatures, fewer crowds, and still plenty of snow left.
 

Amie H

Angel Diva
Thanks @Amie H for the video and trip report! That snow looks so much fun, and your giggles made me giggle. I'd love to get a Diva group together to stay on-hill at one of the resorts near Ironwood!

I just arrived at Eagle Ridge (on-mountain lodging at Lutsen). Here for 3 days. Let me know if anyone wants pictures of anything specific :smile: Lutsen really is one of my favorite places. I've had good luck with the last week in February (midweek); usually more-pleasant temperatures, fewer crowds, and still plenty of snow left.
Looking forward to Lutsen pics & report!
 

Amie H

Angel Diva
Some pics from the trip:
If you look closely at the horizon pic, you can see Lake Superior ice.
 

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Amie H

Angel Diva
Oh, I forgot to report that Whitecap has a parking lot for RVs and trailers. Does this mean you can park a camper there overnight? I'm not sure, but I did see a converted school bus ("schoolie") in that lot.
 

shadoj

Angel Diva
Oh, I forgot to report that Whitecap has a parking lot for RVs and trailers. Does this mean you can park a camper there overnight? I'm not sure, but I did see a converted school bus ("schoolie") in that lot.
We saw someone tent-camping in the parking lot at Big Powderhorn!

@Iwannaski - are the non-skiers in your group outdoorsy/winter people?

I love the Apostle island area! Duluth, MN is neat city to explore if you happen to be driving through; or, use it as a central base & hit Spirit Mountain / tiny Chester Bowl for more skiing? Grand Marais, MN is a very artsy town and still close to Lutsen. I didn't do much exploring of Ironwood, MI, but they have a good natural-foods coop & grocery store.

Between food allergies & COVID, I don't really eat out; can't report too much on dining scenes, just places where one can cook their own meal.
 

Iwannaski

Angel Diva
@shadoj - would that they all were anything. We have a WIDE variety of responses to winter. :smile:
Our family is 100% team skiing (now, after a bit of work on my part…;) ). So, at least there’s that.
 

Amie H

Angel Diva
Between food allergies & COVID, I don't really eat out; can't report too much on dining scenes, just places where one can cook their own meal.
I, too, have food allergies (fish/seafood) so I can't even walk in a restaurant Up North on a Friday (fish fry) bc the steam in the air will set me off! I do Hotel room meal cuisine on my trips (pics below!)

I second Duluth as a cool destination. I have a buddy who moved there so I'm hoping to meet up w her over a weekend and maybe sneak in a Spirit Mtn evening ski. Airfares to Duluth this year have been terrible since AA pulled out of that market.

Bayfield, WI has a community hill, Mt Ashwabay.

1st pic, homemade mushroom risotto and a lager who's name called to me after skiing Granite Peak.

2nd pic, after skiing Whitecsp day 1, "Pollo Ranchero" (my own recipe - chicken w onion, zucchini, and queso fresco in Ranchero salsa) plus brown basmati rice, jose Cuervo marg, sliced oranges.
 

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Amie H

Angel Diva
Duluth is a great town! But I'm here to defend food in the Dells!! The DelBar is my favorite when Ishnala is closed. I love those old school supper clubs.
Hah, I'm not much of a supper club person, even though I love retro stuff, and like the *idea* of them. Steakhouse/steakhouse-adjacent menus are often too seafood/fish heavy for me to be a safe option, and my hub and I don't care for prime rib. What's your fave dish at DelBar? Even more important question: do you take your Old Fashioneds "sweet?"

We have a cabin about an hour Northwest of the Dells. It was a boon for us when we got a good Mexican restaurant in the nearest town(Adams-Friendship) and now we have Sand Valley golf course w a farm to table place.

But I mostly cook, and bring food from home to cook. The nearest market has not much selection in the way of produce. They have kicka$$ donuts, though!

I'd love to find truly crave-worthy pizza/Italian food up that way.
 

Iwannaski

Angel Diva
I love supper clubs… so does DH. Juggling kid preferences when on vacation is less fun.

Also, a good supper club meal for 4, including 1 teenager, is non-trivial cheddar. ;) and depending on lodging, lots of wasted leftovers. I love small plates places because we can tune our food to our preferences and waste less.

But my old-fashioned answer is brandy/press. Cherries.
 

Amie H

Angel Diva
@shadoj I just saw on their Instagram that Lutsen is getting snow right now. Yeah, enjoy the freshies!!!!
 

Amie H

Angel Diva
But my old-fashioned answer is brandy/press. Cherries.
Some bartender in the Chicago area started me on this version decades ago, so now it's my go-to brown liquor cocktail: Southern Comfort Old Fashioned
It's sweet but darn tasty!
 

WaterGirl

Ski Diva Extraordinaire
Forget the Old-Fashions - what is the Relish tray like?

If you ladies ever decide on a trip to Mt. Bohemia please let me know.....

 
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