Ringrat
Ski Diva Extraordinaire
This fall I had the opportunity to join up on a trip to go trekking in Nepal. My sister did the planning - she had picked a tour company and trek and I just said "yes" and sent her money. We trekked with Exodus Travels on the "High Passes to Everest Base Camp" trek. We had several days in Kathmandu to do our own thing, and spent 18 days walking through the Everest region.
Rather than going to base camp as an in-and-out affair (the standard base camp route), this trek is a loop that crosses 3 passes, with options to ascend 5 peaks and go to Everest Base Camp. I was lucky in terms of not getting too sick or having too much trouble with altitude, and I was able to complete everything except one peak, where I went halfway up and then bailed. This route spends 10 nights above 4500 m, and 9 days hiking above 5000 m, so it was not a relaxing vacation!
Random thoughts:
- The area around base camp and the route to it is BUSY. It wasn't climbing season for Everest, so it was just trekkers creating the traffic, but there are trekkers and porters and yak trains and helicopters everywhere. It was like a highway of people on the trail.
- The areas just either side of the standard base camp route are quieter. Far from deserted, but much more pleasant.
- The company we travelled with (Exodus) has a great reputation. They've provided solar cookers to the teahouses they use to help reduce juniper and yak dung use, so that was pretty awesome to see.
- Hiking in a group of 14 makes everything take longer - breaks, hiking, lunch, etc. After a few days on the trail (spent ascending...), you get used to it and appreciate the time it gives you to breathe.
- Doing anything at altitude is hard. I found the hardest thing was getting into my liner & sleeping bag. It was cold, I wanted to get my jacket off and then just get in, but I had to either take a break partway through or be panting like a dog by the time I was in.
- The scenery is unbelievably breathtaking. I mean, I knew it would be good, but it was way beyond my expectations.
- The concept of everything getting carried in for days on yak/human is hard to wrap your head around. You start to get used to it, and then you see a dude carrying 4 sheets of plywood or roofing tin on a 5-day walk up the mountain. Jeez.
- Everyone is incredibly friendly, with a warmth that was inspiring. I'm sure I wouldn't be half that happy if there were hundreds of tourists invading my mountains every day!
- Flying into Lukla is crazy. Not because of the planes and the airport, but because flight scheduling out of Kathmandu seems to not exist. We sat in the airport for about 6 hours trying to get to Lukla, and I'm quite certain that we only did because we had a super experienced leader who knew everyone, and we totally stole someone else's flight.
- Our guides were amazing.
I'm pretty sure everyone just wants to see pictures, so here are a few. A more complete set lives here:
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10101234345524675.1073741842.120401238&type=1&l=53487a427c
Just taking a break on the way up Nangkartshang Peak:
Looking out at Mt. Everest & Everest Base Camp & the Khumbu Glacier from Kala Patthar:
The view from the top of Gokyo Ri on a snowy morning was breathtaking:
Looking back while heading up towards the Renjo La:
Back in Kathmandu, at Boudhanath:
Rather than going to base camp as an in-and-out affair (the standard base camp route), this trek is a loop that crosses 3 passes, with options to ascend 5 peaks and go to Everest Base Camp. I was lucky in terms of not getting too sick or having too much trouble with altitude, and I was able to complete everything except one peak, where I went halfway up and then bailed. This route spends 10 nights above 4500 m, and 9 days hiking above 5000 m, so it was not a relaxing vacation!
Random thoughts:
- The area around base camp and the route to it is BUSY. It wasn't climbing season for Everest, so it was just trekkers creating the traffic, but there are trekkers and porters and yak trains and helicopters everywhere. It was like a highway of people on the trail.
- The areas just either side of the standard base camp route are quieter. Far from deserted, but much more pleasant.
- The company we travelled with (Exodus) has a great reputation. They've provided solar cookers to the teahouses they use to help reduce juniper and yak dung use, so that was pretty awesome to see.
- Hiking in a group of 14 makes everything take longer - breaks, hiking, lunch, etc. After a few days on the trail (spent ascending...), you get used to it and appreciate the time it gives you to breathe.
- Doing anything at altitude is hard. I found the hardest thing was getting into my liner & sleeping bag. It was cold, I wanted to get my jacket off and then just get in, but I had to either take a break partway through or be panting like a dog by the time I was in.
- The scenery is unbelievably breathtaking. I mean, I knew it would be good, but it was way beyond my expectations.
- The concept of everything getting carried in for days on yak/human is hard to wrap your head around. You start to get used to it, and then you see a dude carrying 4 sheets of plywood or roofing tin on a 5-day walk up the mountain. Jeez.
- Everyone is incredibly friendly, with a warmth that was inspiring. I'm sure I wouldn't be half that happy if there were hundreds of tourists invading my mountains every day!
- Flying into Lukla is crazy. Not because of the planes and the airport, but because flight scheduling out of Kathmandu seems to not exist. We sat in the airport for about 6 hours trying to get to Lukla, and I'm quite certain that we only did because we had a super experienced leader who knew everyone, and we totally stole someone else's flight.
- Our guides were amazing.
I'm pretty sure everyone just wants to see pictures, so here are a few. A more complete set lives here:
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10101234345524675.1073741842.120401238&type=1&l=53487a427c
Just taking a break on the way up Nangkartshang Peak:
Looking out at Mt. Everest & Everest Base Camp & the Khumbu Glacier from Kala Patthar:
The view from the top of Gokyo Ri on a snowy morning was breathtaking:
Looking back while heading up towards the Renjo La:
Back in Kathmandu, at Boudhanath: